{"id":136290,"date":"2025-03-31T07:00:43","date_gmt":"2025-03-31T00:00:43","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/heritagevietnamairlines.com\/?p=136290"},"modified":"2026-03-03T17:35:17","modified_gmt":"2026-03-03T10:35:17","slug":"thoi-trang-kinh-ky-mot-thuo","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/s6.letweb.net\/heritage-fashion\/thoi-trang-kinh-ky-mot-thuo\/","title":{"rendered":"Th\u1eddi trang kinh k\u1ef3 m\u1ed9t thu\u1edf"},"content":{"rendered":"

B\u00e0i TH\u1ee6Y TI\u00caN
\n<\/strong>\u1ea2nh NG\u1eccC THANH, INTERNET<\/strong><\/p>\n

Nh\u00ecn l\u1ea1i v\u1ec1 H\u00e0 N\u1ed9i th\u1eddi k\u1ef3 \u0110\u00f4ng D\u01b0\u01a1ng \u2013 n\u01a1i ti\u00ean phong cho \u0111\u1ea1i \u0111a s\u1ed1 c\u00e1c xu h\u01b0\u1edbng th\u1ea9m m\u1ef9 t\u00e2n th\u1eddi \u0111\u00e3 l\u00e0m phong ph\u00fa quang c\u1ea3nh th\u1eddi trang tr\u00ean kh\u1eafp Vi\u1ec7t Nam.<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n

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Thi\u00ea\u0301u n\u01b0\u0303 Ha\u0300 N\u1ecd\u0302i \u0111ang la\u0301i chi\u00ea\u0301c Peugeot 203 tre\u0302n ph\u00f4\u0301 Tra\u0300ng Ti\u00ea\u0300n (Rue Paul Bert)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

N\u00f4 n\u1ee9c ph\u1ed1 th\u1ecb<\/strong><\/p>\n

Tr\u1ea3i qua m\u1ed9t ti\u1ebfn tr\u00ecnh l\u1ecbch s\u1eed d\u00e0i, t\u1eeb Th\u0103ng Long \u2013 K\u1ebb Ch\u1ee3 \u0111\u1ebfn khi tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh th\u1ee7 \u0111\u00f4 c\u1ee7a Li\u00ean bang \u0110\u00f4ng D\u01b0\u01a1ng v\u00e0o n\u0103m 1902, H\u00e0 N\u1ed9i lu\u00f4n l\u00e0 t\u00e2m \u0111i\u1ec3m c\u1ee7a nh\u1eefng cu\u1ed9c giao th\u01b0\u01a1ng s\u1ea7m u\u1ea5t, v\u00e0 l\u00e0 n\u01a1i ti\u1ebfp nh\u1eadn c\u00e1c d\u00f2ng ch\u1ea3y v\u0103n h\u00f3a \u2013 th\u1eddi trang t\u1ee9 x\u1ee9. Ch\u00ednh nh\u1eefng con ph\u1ed1 t\u1ea5p n\u1eadp ng\u01b0\u1eddi mua k\u1ebb b\u00e1n \u0111\u00e3 th\u00fac \u0111\u1ea9y s\u1ef1 ph\u00e1t tri\u1ec3n c\u1ee7a th\u1eddi trang th\u00e0nh th\u1ecb, t\u1ea1o n\u00ean m\u1ed9t th\u1ecb tr\u01b0\u1eddng s\u00f4i \u0111\u1ed9ng, n\u01a1i c\u00e1c xu h\u01b0\u1edbng y ph\u1ee5c m\u1edbi nh\u1ea5t \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c lan truy\u1ec1n.<\/p>\n

D\u1ea1o quanh ph\u1ed1 H\u00e0ng \u0110\u00e0o (Rue de la Soie), H\u00e0 N\u1ed9i n\u0103m 1940 hi\u1ec7n l\u00ean s\u1ed1ng \u0111\u1ed9ng qua nh\u1eefng b\u1ee9c \u1ea3nh t\u01b0 li\u1ec7u c\u1ee7a nhi\u1ebfp \u1ea3nh gia ng\u01b0\u1eddi M\u1ef9 Harrison Forman. Kh\u00f4ng kh\u00f3 \u0111\u1ec3 nh\u1eadn ra h\u00e0ng lo\u1ea1t c\u1eeda hi\u1ec7u th\u1eddi trang c\u00f3 ti\u1ebfng, t\u1eeb nh\u00e0 may Thanh L\u01b0\u01a1ng s\u1ed1 39 v\u00e0 c\u1eeda hi\u1ec7u Tr\u1ecbnh V\u0103n S\u1eedu s\u1ed1 45 H\u00e0ng \u0110\u00e0o chuy\u00ean b\u00e1n kh\u0103n v\u00e0 m\u0169, nh\u00e0 m\u00e1y nhu\u1ed9m T\u00f4 Ch\u00e2u \u1edf ng\u00e3 t\u01b0 H\u00e0ng \u0110\u00e0o \u2013 C\u1ea7u G\u1ed7, \u0111\u1ebfn th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u gi\u00e0y qu\u1ed1c t\u1ebf Bata. B\u00ean c\u1ea1nh \u0111\u00f3, c\u00e1c ph\u1ed1 chuy\u00ean may m\u1eb7c nh\u01b0 H\u00e0ng Tr\u1ed1ng, H\u00e0ng Gai v\u00e0 ph\u1ed1 gi\u00e0y d\u00e9p H\u00e0ng Gi\u1ea7y c\u0169ng \u0111\u00f3ng vai tr\u00f2 quan tr\u1ecdng trong vi\u1ec7c \u0111\u1ecbnh h\u00ecnh di\u1ec7n m\u1ea1o th\u1eddi trang H\u00e0 N\u1ed9i th\u1eddi b\u1ea5y gi\u1edd.<\/p>\n

L\u00e0n s\u00f3ng \u00e2u ph\u1ee5c<\/strong><\/p>\n

V\u00e0o nh\u1eefng n\u0103m 1930, l\u1edbp thanh ni\u00ean tr\u00ed th\u1ee9c \u0111ua nhau \u201cb\u1ecf c\u0169 theo m\u1edbi\u201d \u0111\u1ec3 kho\u00e1c l\u00ean m\u00ecnh \u00c2u ph\u1ee5c. C\u00e1c t\u00edt qu\u1ea3ng c\u00e1o t\u1eeb n\u0103m 1929 c\u1ee7a m\u1ed9t c\u1eeda hi\u1ec7u t\u00ean C\u01a1-Quang tr\u00ean ph\u1ed1 H\u00e0ng B\u00f4ng \u0111\u00e3 \u0111i\u1ec3m t\u00ean nh\u1eefng m\u00f3n ph\u1ee5c s\u1ee9c th\u1eddi th\u01b0\u1ee3ng b\u1ea5y gi\u1edd: \u201cGilet v\u00e0 pull\u2019over ng\u01b0\u1eddi nh\u1edbn v\u00e0 tr\u1ebb con\u201d, \u201crubande vi\u1ec1n m\u0169\u201d, \u201cm\u0169 feutre ki\u1ec3u \u2018tirat\u2019 v\u00e0 \u2018mossant\u2019\u201d, hay \u201ckhuy manchette v\u00e0 bouton c\u1ee7a hi\u1ec7u MURAT\u201d. Song, s\u1ef1 xu\u1ea5t hi\u1ec7n c\u1ee7a y ph\u1ee5c ph\u01b0\u01a1ng T\u00e2y kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u1ed3ng ngh\u0129a v\u1edbi vi\u1ec7c ng\u01b0\u1eddi Vi\u1ec7t th\u1ee5 \u0111\u1ed9ng ti\u1ebfp nh\u1eadn th\u1eddi trang Ph\u00e1p.<\/p>\n

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Thi\u00ea\u0301u n\u01b0\u0303 Ha\u0300 N\u1ecd\u0302i m\u1ea1\u0306c a\u0301o da\u0300i trong m\u1ecd\u0302t tri\u00ea\u0309n la\u0303m o\u0302 to\u0302 na\u0306m 1952<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Th\u00e1ng 1\/1934, tr\u00ean t\u1edd Phong H\u00f3a xu\u1ea5t hi\u1ec7n m\u1ed9t \u0111o\u1ea1n qu\u1ea3ng c\u00e1o ng\u1eafn c\u1ee7a hi\u1ec7u d\u1ec7t C\u1ef1-Chung: \u201cB\u1ea3n hi\u1ec7u \u0111em tr\u01b0\u1edbc nh\u1ea5t v\u00e0o \u0111\u1ecba h\u1ea1t \u0110\u00f4ng-d\u01b0\u01a1ng ngh\u1ec1 d\u1ec7t \u00e1o pull\u2019over, c\u00f3 dessin Jacquard nay l\u1ea1i m\u1edbi mua \u1edf b\u00ean \u0110\u1ee9c nhi\u1ec1u m\u00e1y d\u1ec7t pull\u2019over, cache-col v\u00e0 caravate l\u1ed1i \u0111an ch\u00e9o \u201cTress\u00e9\u201d tr\u00f4ng c\u1ef1c k\u1ef3 \u0111\u1eb9p ch\u01b0a \u0111\u00e2u c\u00f3\u201d. V\u1edbi \u0111o\u1ea1n qu\u1ea3ng c\u00e1o n\u00e0y, ta th\u1ea5y r\u00f5 ng\u01b0\u1eddi Vi\u1ec7t kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 nh\u1eadp kh\u1ea9u th\u1eddi trang m\u00e0 c\u00f2n ch\u1ee7 \u0111\u1ed9ng ti\u1ebfp thu v\u00e0 l\u00e0m ch\u1ee7 k\u1ef9 ngh\u1ec7 d\u1ec7t may ph\u01b0\u01a1ng T\u00e2y. V\u00ed nh\u01b0 l\u00e0ng C\u1ef1u \u1edf H\u00e0 N\u1ed9i nh\u1eefng n\u0103m 1930 \u0111\u00e3 c\u1eed ng\u01b0\u1eddi sang Ph\u00e1p h\u1ecdc ngh\u1ec1 may \u00c2u ph\u1ee5c, khi v\u1ec1 n\u01b0\u1edbc l\u1ea1i truy\u1ec1n d\u1ea1y cho d\u00e2n l\u00e0ng. D\u00e2n l\u00e0ng C\u1ef1u sau \u0111\u00f3 mang c\u00e1i t\u00e0i may complet n\u1ee9c ti\u1ebfng c\u1ee7a m\u00ecnh \u0111i t\u1ecfa kh\u1eafp t\u1eeb H\u00e0 N\u1ed9i \u0111\u1ebfn S\u00e0i G\u00f2n. \u0110i\u1ec3n h\u00ecnh l\u00e0 hi\u1ec7u may Ph\u00fa C\u01b0\u1eddng s\u1ed1 10 H\u00e0ng Tr\u1ed1ng, tuy \u0111\u00e3 qua b\u1ed1n \u0111\u1eddi nh\u01b0ng v\u1eabn gi\u1eef t\u00ean c\u0169, n\u1ebfp x\u01b0a.<\/p>\n

\u201cG\u00e1i t\u00e2n th\u1eddi\u201d<\/strong><\/p>\n

N\u1ebfu nh\u1eefng qu\u00fd \u00f4ng th\u00e0nh th\u1ecb m\u1eb7c complet, vest v\u00e0 th\u1eaft caravate th\u00ec n\u1eef gi\u1edbi c\u0169ng kh\u00f4ng ch\u1eadm nh\u1ecbp theo \u0111u\u1ed5i phong tr\u00e0o \u201ct\u00e2n th\u1eddi\u201d. \u201cG\u00e1i t\u00e2n th\u1eddi\u201d l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t c\u1ee5m t\u1eeb \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c nh\u1eafc \u0111\u1ebfn trong b\u00e1o Ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef Th\u1eddi \u0111\u00e0m s\u1ed1 ra ng\u00e0y 29 th\u00e1ng 10 n\u0103m 1933, m\u00f4 t\u1ea3 h\u00ecnh \u1ea3nh m\u1ed9t thi\u1ebfu n\u1eef th\u1eddi \u0111\u1ea1i: \u201cH\u1ecd \u0103n m\u1eb7c v\u00e0 trang s\u1ee9c theo ki\u1ec3u m\u1edbi. Qu\u1ea7n tr\u1eafng, \u00e1o m\u00e0u, gi\u00e0y cao g\u00f3t, \u0111\u1ec3 r\u0103ng tr\u1eafng, r\u1ebd \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng ng\u00f4i l\u1ec7ch v\u00e0 n\u00f3i chuy\u1ec7n v\u1edbi \u0111\u00e0n \u00f4ng b\u1eb1ng ti\u1ebfng Ph\u00e1p, th\u1ec9nh tho\u1ea3ng vi\u1ebft b\u00e0i \u0111\u0103ng nh\u1eadt tr\u00ecnh, tr\u00ean danh thi\u1ebfp c\u00f3 \u0111\u1ec1 ch\u1eef \u2018n\u1eef s\u0129\u2019\u2026\u201d. Kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 l\u00e0 c\u00e2u chuy\u1ec7n y ph\u1ee5c, \u0111\u00e2y c\u00f2n l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t cu\u1ed9c c\u00e1ch t\u00e2n v\u1ec1 phong th\u00e1i v\u00e0 t\u01b0 t\u01b0\u1edfng. Ti\u1ebfp x\u00fac v\u1edbi t\u01b0 t\u01b0\u1edfng ph\u01b0\u01a1ng T\u00e2y, ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef th\u00e0nh th\u1ecb d\u1ea7n c\u00f3 nhu c\u1ea7u kh\u1eb3ng \u0111\u1ecbnh b\u1ea3n th\u00e2n, m\u1edf ra nh\u1eefng tranh lu\u1eadn \u0111\u1ea7u ti\u00ean v\u1ec1 b\u00ecnh \u0111\u1eb3ng gi\u1edbi.<\/p>\n

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\u0110o\u0302i v\u01a1\u0323 ch\u00f4\u0300ng tre\u0309 tri\u0301 th\u01b0\u0301c Ha\u0300 N\u1ecd\u0302i<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Tr\u00ean \u0111\u00e0 t\u00e2n ti\u1ebfn, nh\u1eefng h\u00e0m r\u0103ng nhu\u1ed9m \u0111en d\u1ea7n th\u01b0a th\u1edbt tr\u00ean c\u00e1c con ph\u1ed1 H\u00e0 N\u1ed9i. \u0110\u1ebfn th\u1eadp ni\u00ean 1940, ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef H\u00e0 th\u00e0nh v\u1eabn gi\u1eef th\u00f3i quen v\u1ea5n t\u00f3c, song d\u1ea7n l\u01b0\u1ee3c b\u1edbt chi\u1ebfc n\u00f3n quai thao, n\u00f3n ba t\u1ea7m. Nh\u1eefng m\u00e1i t\u00f3c duy\u00ean d\u00e1ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c tho\u1ea3i m\u00e1i tung bay tr\u00ean ph\u1ed1 th\u1ecb, t\u1eeb ki\u1ec3u t\u00f3c b\u1ed3ng b\u1ec1nh u\u1ed1n xo\u0103n \u201cphi d\u00ea\u201d, t\u00f3c k\u1eb9p bu\u00f4ng d\u00e0i sau l\u01b0ng cho \u0111\u1ebfn m\u1ed1t c\u1eaft ng\u1eafn ngang vai. \u0110\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t, h\u1ecd ch\u1ea3i t\u00f3c ng\u00f4i l\u1ec7ch \u0111\u1ec3 kh\u00e1ng l\u1ea1i ki\u1ec3u ch\u1ebb ng\u00f4i gi\u1eefa \u2013 bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng c\u1ee7a v\u1ebb \u0111oan trang chu\u1ea9n m\u1ef1c th\u1ebf k\u1ef7 tr\u01b0\u1edbc.<\/p>\n

Ngay c\u1ea3 chi\u1ebfc qu\u1ea7n \u0111en kinh \u0111i\u1ec3n c\u0169ng tr\u1edf n\u00ean l\u1ed7i th\u1eddi. B\u00e1o Phong H\u00f3a t\u1eebng \u0111\u0103ng t\u1ea3i mong mu\u1ed1n c\u1ee7a ch\u1ecb em: \u201cCh\u00fang em \u01b0a chi\u1ebfc qu\u1ea7n l\u1ee5a b\u1ea1ch \u00eam m\u00e1t h\u01a1n c\u00e1i qu\u1ea7n s\u1ed3i d\u00e0y c\u1ed3m c\u1ed9p\u201d. N\u1ed7i b\u1eadn l\u00f2ng n\u00e0y \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c nh\u1eafc l\u1ea1i qua truy\u1ec7n ng\u1eafn C\u00f4 K\u1ebfu, g\u00e1i t\u00e2n th\u1eddi do Nguy\u1ec5n C\u00f4ng Hoan vi\u1ebft n\u0103m 1933. Trong \u0111\u00f3, nh\u00e2n v\u1eadt B\u1ea1ch Nh\u1ea1n ch\u01b0a \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1eb7c \u201cqu\u1ea7n tr\u1eafng v\u00e0 \u00e1o s\u00e1u khuy\u201d \u0111\u00e3 c\u00f3 nh\u1eefng t\u00e2m s\u1ef1 r\u1ea5t \u201cthi\u1ebft th\u1ef1c\u201d: \u201cC\u00f4 B\u1ea1ch Nh\u1ea1n bu\u1ed3n l\u1eafm v\u00ec c\u1ed5 h\u1ee7 h\u1ebft c\u00e1ch. \u1ea4y th\u1ebf c\u0169ng mang ti\u1ebfng l\u00e0 con g\u00e1i H\u00e0ng \u0110\u00e0o!\u201d.<\/p>\n

Gi\u1eefa th\u1eddi th\u1ebf \u1ea5y, Lemur C\u00e1t T\u01b0\u1eddng \u2013 m\u1ed9t h\u1ecda s\u0129 t\u1ed1t nghi\u1ec7p tr\u01b0\u1eddng Cao \u0111\u1eb3ng M\u1ef9 thu\u1eadt \u0110\u00f4ng D\u01b0\u01a1ng \u0111\u00e3 n\u1ea3y sinh nhu c\u1ea7u \u00c2u h\u00f3a y ph\u1ee5c, song v\u1eabn g\u00ecn gi\u1eef b\u1ea3n s\u1eafc d\u00e2n t\u1ed9c. \u00d4ng c\u00e1ch t\u00e2n \u00e1o d\u00e0i ng\u0169 th\u00e2n th\u00e0nh hai th\u00e2n, c\u1ea3i ti\u1ebfn phom d\u00e1ng \u00f4m s\u00e1t c\u01a1 th\u1ec3 \u0111\u1ec3 th\u1ec3 hi\u1ec7n n\u00e9t y\u00eau ki\u1ec1u c\u1ee7a ph\u00e1i n\u1eef, khuy\u1ebfn kh\u00edch m\u1eb7c v\u1edbi qu\u1ea7n tr\u1eafng \u0111\u1ec3 ch\u1ee9ng t\u1ecf d\u00e2n An Nam v\u0103n minh. Khi thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf c\u1ee7a \u00f4ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u0103ng tr\u00ean s\u1ed1 b\u00e1o m\u1eebng Xu\u00e2n n\u0103m 1934 c\u1ee7a Phong H\u00f3a, ch\u00fang nhanh ch\u00f3ng g\u00e2y ti\u1ebfng vang. Sau \u0111\u00f3, c\u00e1c danh h\u1ecda L\u00ea Ph\u1ed5, Mai Trung Th\u1ee9, L\u00ea Th\u1ecb L\u1ef1u v\u00e0 V\u0169 Cao \u0110\u00e0m v\u1ebd l\u1ea1i, tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng \u00e1o d\u00e0i Vi\u1ec7t Nam hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i.<\/p>\n

Theo c\u00e1ch \u1ea5y, H\u00e0 N\u1ed9i \u0111\u00e3 \u0111i qua m\u1ed9t th\u1eddi k\u1ef3 \u0111\u1ea7y x\u00e1o \u0111\u1ed9ng v\u1edbi nh\u1eefng d\u00f2ng ch\u1ea3y th\u1eddi trang li\u00ean t\u1ee5c \u0111\u1ed1i ch\u1ecdi v\u00e0 ti\u1ebfp bi\u1ebfn l\u1eabn nhau. Ch\u00ednh nh\u1eefng th\u1eed nghi\u1ec7m t\u00e1o b\u1ea1o v\u00e0 nh\u1eefng ph\u1ea3n \u1ee9ng \u0111\u1ed1i ngh\u1ecbch ban \u0111\u1ea7u \u0111\u00e3 gi\u00fap \u0111\u1ecbnh h\u00ecnh di\u1ec7n m\u1ea1o th\u1ea9m m\u1ef9 c\u1ee7a m\u1ed9t x\u00e3 h\u1ed9i \u0111ang t\u1eebng b\u01b0\u1edbc chuy\u1ec3n m\u00ecnh.\"\"<\/p>\n

Xem th\u00eam b\u00e0i vi\u1ebft c\u00f9ng chuy\u00ean m\u1ee5c:<\/strong><\/p>\n