{"id":151235,"date":"2023-10-10T00:00:56","date_gmt":"2023-10-09T17:00:56","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/s6.letweb.net\/heritage-fashion\/chiec-vay-cuoi-trang\/"},"modified":"2023-10-10T00:00:56","modified_gmt":"2023-10-09T17:00:56","slug":"chiec-vay-cuoi-trang","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/s6.letweb.net\/heritage-fashion\/chiec-vay-cuoi-trang\/","title":{"rendered":"Chi\u1ebfc v\u00e1y c\u01b0\u1edbi tr\u1eafng"},"content":{"rendered":"

B\u00e0i Th\u00e1i Khang Ph\u1ea1m
\n<\/strong>\u1ea2nh Internet<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u1ede th\u1eddi \u0111i\u1ec3m tr\u1ecdng \u0111\u1ea1i nh\u1ea5t cu\u1ed9c \u0111\u1eddi, ng\u01b0\u1eddi ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef n\u00e0o c\u0169ng mong mu\u1ed1n \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1eb7c chi\u1ebfc v\u00e1y c\u01b0\u1edbi, ki\u1ec3u ph\u1ee5c trang kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 sang tr\u1ecdng m\u00e0 c\u00f2n thu\u1ea7n khi\u1ebft, trang nh\u00e3 v\u00e0 bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng cho gi\u1ea5c m\u01a1 h\u1ea1nh ph\u00fac c\u1ee7a m\u1ecdi c\u00f4 g\u00e1i.<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n

\"C\u00f4ng
Co\u0302ng nu\u031bo\u031bng Diana v\u01a1\u0301i chi\u00ea\u0301c va\u0301y cu\u031b\u01a1\u0301i th\u00ea\u0301 ky\u0309 trong l\u00ea\u0303 tha\u0300nh ho\u0302n Hoa\u0300ng gia v\u01a1\u0301i Tha\u0301i t\u01b0\u0309 Charles<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

C\u00e2u chuy\u1ec7n v\u1ec1 chi\u1ebfc v\u00e1y c\u01b0\u1edbi m\u00e0u tr\u1eafng<\/strong><\/p>\n

Trong l\u1ecbch s\u1eed th\u1eddi trang, ch\u01b0a t\u1eebng c\u00f3 b\u1ea5t k\u00ec m\u00f4 t\u1ea3 c\u1ee5 th\u1ec3 v\u1ec1 phom d\u00e1ng v\u00e1y c\u01b0\u1edbi \u1edf c\u00e1c n\u01b0\u1edbc ph\u01b0\u01a1ng T\u00e2y th\u1eddi \u0111i\u1ec3m tr\u01b0\u1edbc chi\u1ebfn tranh th\u1ebf gi\u1edbi th\u1ee9 2. C\u00e1c c\u00f4 d\u00e2u th\u01b0\u1eddng ch\u1ec9 b\u01b0\u1edbc v\u00e0o l\u1ec5 \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng v\u1edbi b\u1ed9 trang ph\u1ee5c \u0111\u1eb9p nh\u1ea5t c\u00f9ng ng\u01b0\u1eddi ch\u1ed3ng t\u01b0\u01a1ng lai.<\/p>\n

Tuy nhi\u00ean, l\u1ecbch s\u1eed v\u00e1y c\u01b0\u1edbi c\u00f3 ngu\u1ed3n g\u1ed1c t\u1eeb ng\u01b0\u1eddi La M\u00e3. H\u1ecd th\u01b0\u1eddng s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng \u00e1o \u201ctunic\u201d (\u00e1o d\u00e1ng su\u00f4ng ph\u1ee7 h\u00f4ng) v\u1edbi ki\u1ec3u d\u00e1ng d\u00e0i, c\u00f3 d\u00e2y th\u1eaft ngang eo \u0111\u1ec3 l\u00e0m trang ph\u1ee5c trong h\u00f4n l\u1ec5. M\u00e0u tr\u1eafng theo quan ni\u1ec7m ng\u01b0\u1eddi La M\u00e3 ch\u00ednh l\u00e0 s\u1eafc th\u00e1i c\u1ee7a n\u1eef th\u1ea7n gia \u0111\u00ecnh th\u1ea7n Vesta. V\u00ec th\u1ebf, c\u00e1c c\u00f4 d\u00e2u m\u1eb7c chi\u1ebfc v\u00e1y tunic m\u00e0u tr\u1eafng c\u0169ng ch\u00ednh l\u00e0 c\u00e1ch \u0111\u1ec3 b\u00e0y t\u1ecf s\u1ef1 t\u00f4n th\u1edd d\u00e0nh cho th\u1ea7n linh. \u1ede th\u1eddi \u0111i\u1ec3m n\u00e0y, tunic c\u0169ng ch\u01b0a \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c xem l\u00e0 chi\u1ebfc v\u00e1y c\u01b0\u1edbi ch\u00ednh th\u1ed1ng, m\u00e0 \u0111\u00e2y ch\u1ec9 nh\u01b0 m\u1ed9t m\u00f3n \u0111\u1ed3 \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng cho th\u1eddi \u0111i\u1ec3m quan tr\u1ecdng c\u1ee7a cu\u1ed9c \u0111\u1eddi.<\/p>\n

\u0110\u1ebfn n\u0103m 1840, kho\u1ea3nh kh\u1eafc \u0111\u00e1nh d\u1ea5u s\u1ef1 ra \u0111\u1eddi c\u1ee7a chi\u1ebfc v\u00e1y c\u01b0\u1edbi m\u00e0u tr\u1eafng ch\u00ednh l\u00e0 l\u1ec5 th\u00e0nh h\u00f4n c\u1ee7a N\u1eef ho\u00e0ng Victoria v\u1edbi V\u01b0\u01a1ng t\u1ebf (con r\u1ec3 c\u1ee7a ho\u00e0ng t\u1ed9c) Albert. Theo c\u00e1c nh\u00e0 nghi\u00ean c\u1ee9u thu\u1ed9c Parsons School of Design (M\u1ef9), m\u00e0u tr\u1eafng l\u00fac \u0111\u1ea5y kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng c\u1ee7a s\u1ef1 tao nh\u00e3 v\u00e0 thu\u1ea7n khi\u1ebft m\u00e0 \u0111\u1ea1i di\u1ec7n cho ti\u1ec1n t\u00e0i v\u00e0 \u0111\u1ecba v\u1ecb.<\/p>\n

Chi\u1ebfc v\u00e1y c\u01b0\u1edbi c\u1ee7a N\u1eef ho\u00e0ng v\u1edbi th\u00e2n tr\u00ean \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf theo d\u1ea1ng corset, c\u00f2n th\u00e2n d\u01b0\u1edbi g\u1eafn th\u00eam ph\u1ea7n t\u00f9ng \u0111\u1ec3 t\u1ea1o \u0111\u1ed9 ph\u1ed3ng x\u00f2e cho v\u00e1y, c\u00f9ng chi ti\u1ebft \u0111\u00ednh k\u1ebft ren th\u1ee7 c\u00f4ng do c\u00e1c ngh\u1ec7 nh\u00e2n \u1edf Anh th\u1ef1c hi\u1ec7n. V\u1edbi chi\u1ebfc v\u00e1y c\u01b0\u1edbi \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t trong h\u00f4n l\u1ec5 h\u1ea1nh ph\u00fac v\u1edbi V\u01b0\u01a1ng t\u1ebf Albert, N\u1eef ho\u00e0ng \u0111\u00e3 khi\u1ebfn cho nhi\u1ec1u ng\u01b0\u1eddi ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef tr\u1ebb khao kh\u00e1t noi theo v\u00e0 h\u1ecdc h\u1ecfi cho ng\u00e0y tr\u1ecdng \u0111\u1ea1i c\u1ee7a cu\u1ed9c \u0111\u1eddi h\u1ecd. T\u1eeb \u0111\u00f3, chi\u1ebfc v\u00e1y c\u01b0\u1edbi m\u00e0u tr\u1eafng tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng c\u1ee7a h\u00f4n l\u1ec5 t\u00ecnh y\u00eau.<\/p>\n

Xu h\u01b0\u1edbng di\u1ec7n v\u00e1y c\u01b0\u1edbi tr\u1eafng ti\u1ebfp t\u1ee5c ph\u00e1t tri\u1ec3n b\u1edfi nh\u1eefng nh\u00e0 thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf. H\u1ecd \u0111\u01b0a nh\u1eefng m\u1eabu v\u00e1y c\u01b0\u1edbi tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh y\u1ebfu t\u1ed1 \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t trong c\u00e1c show di\u1ec5n th\u1eddi trang. Huy\u1ec1n tho\u1ea1i Jeanne Lanvin \u0111\u00e3 t\u1ea1o n\u00ean chi\u1ebfc v\u00e1y c\u01b0\u1edbi bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng cho h\u00f4n l\u1ec5 c\u1ee7a con g\u00e1i Marguerite Marie Blanche v\u1edbi B\u00e1 t\u01b0\u1edbc Jean de Polignac v\u00e0o n\u0103m 1924. V\u00e1y c\u01b0\u1edbi \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c xem l\u00e0 b\u1ed9 trang ph\u1ee5c \u201c\u0111\u1eaft gi\u00e1\u201d v\u00e0 quan tr\u1ecdng nh\u1ea5t trong cu\u1ed9c \u0111\u1eddi m\u1ed7i c\u00f4 g\u00e1i, n\u00ean m\u1ed9t thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf v\u00e1y c\u01b0\u1edbi th\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c c\u00e1c nh\u00e0 m\u1ed1t s\u1eafp x\u1ebfp \u1edf v\u1ecb tr\u00ed \u0111\u1eb9p nh\u1ea5t trong bu\u1ed5i di\u1ec5n th\u1eddi trang cao c\u1ea5p.<\/p>\n

\"N\u1eef
Va\u0301y cu\u031b\u01a1\u0301i cu\u0309a N\u01b0\u0303 hoa\u0300ng Elizabeth trong ho\u0302n l\u00ea\u0303 v\u01a1\u0301i Hoa\u0300ng t\u01b0\u0309 Philip va\u0300o na\u0306m 1947<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Nh\u1eefng chi\u1ebfc v\u00e1y c\u01b0\u1edbi bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng<\/strong><\/p>\n

Nh\u1eefng chi\u1ebfc v\u00e1y c\u01b0\u1edbi kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 mang \u0111\u1ebfn s\u1ef1 trang nh\u00e3 v\u00e0 tinh kh\u00f4i cho ng\u01b0\u1eddi ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef trong h\u00f4n l\u1ec5 m\u00e0 thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf c\u00f2n tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng tr\u00ean to\u00e0n th\u1ebf gi\u1edbi, \u0111\u00e1nh d\u1ea5u c\u1ed9t m\u1ed1c quan tr\u1ecdng cho s\u1ef1 ph\u00e1t tri\u1ec3n c\u1ee7a m\u1eabu thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t n\u00e0y trong d\u00f2ng ch\u1ea3y th\u1eddi trang to\u00e0n c\u1ea7u.<\/p>\n

V\u00e0o n\u0103m 1922, C\u00f4ng ch\u00faa Mary, con g\u00e1i c\u1ee7a Vua George V k\u1ebft h\u00f4n c\u00f9ng T\u1eed t\u01b0\u1edbc Lascelle. M\u1eabu v\u00e1y c\u01b0\u1edbi \u0111\u00ednh ng\u1ecdc trai v\u00e0 pha l\u00ea c\u1ee7a b\u00e0 \u0111\u00e3 tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf mang t\u00ednh bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng v\u1edbi phom d\u00e1ng su\u00f4ng h\u1ea1 eo l\u1ea5y c\u1ea3m h\u1ee9ng t\u1eeb xu h\u01b0\u1edbng v\u00e1y flapper th\u1ecbnh h\u00e0nh trong th\u1eadp ni\u00ean 1920. Trang ph\u1ee5c \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u00e1ng t\u1ea1o b\u1edfi nh\u00e0 thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf v\u00e1y c\u01b0\u1edbi h\u00e0ng \u0111\u1ea7u t\u1ea1i Anh l\u00e0 William Wallace Terry.<\/p>\n

M\u1ed9t thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf kh\u00e1c c\u0169ng mang t\u00ednh l\u1ecbch s\u1eed l\u00e0 chi\u1ebfc v\u00e1y c\u01b0\u1edbi c\u1ee7a N\u1eef ho\u00e0ng Elizabeth trong h\u00f4n l\u1ec5 v\u1edbi Ho\u00e0ng t\u1eed Philip v\u00e0o n\u0103m 1947. Nh\u00e0 thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf Norman Hartnell \u0111\u00e3 t\u1ea1o ra m\u1eabu v\u00e1y c\u00f3 phom d\u00e1ng \u0111\u1ed3ng h\u1ed3 c\u00e1t \u0111\u00ednh hoa, 1.000 vi\u00ean ng\u1ecdc trai, pha l\u00ea v\u00e0 nh\u1eefng s\u1ee3i ch\u1ec9 t\u01a1 b\u1ea1c. Ph\u1ee5 ki\u1ec7n l\u00e0 kh\u0103n tr\u00f9m \u0111\u1ea7u th\u00eau h\u00ecnh l\u00e1 ng\u00f4 v\u00e0 hoa d\u00e0i g\u1ea7n 4m. Thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf l\u1ea5y c\u1ea3m h\u1ee9ng t\u1eeb b\u1ee9c h\u1ecda La Primavera (M\u00f9a xu\u00e2n) c\u1ee7a ngh\u1ec7 s\u0129 Botticelli v\u1ec1 n\u1eef th\u1ea7n m\u1eb7c v\u00e1y \u0111i r\u1ea3i hoa, t\u01b0\u1ee3ng tr\u01b0ng cho t\u00ecnh y\u00eau v\u00e0 m\u00f9a xu\u00e2n.<\/p>\n

C\u00e2u chuy\u1ec7n v\u1ec1 m\u1ed9t l\u1ec5 c\u01b0\u1edbi th\u1ebf k\u1ef7 kh\u00f4ng th\u1ec3 kh\u00f4ng nh\u1eafc \u0111\u1ebfn h\u00f4n l\u1ec5 c\u1ee7a C\u00f4ng n\u01b0\u01a1ng Diana v\u00e0 Th\u00e1i t\u1eed Charles v\u00e0o n\u0103m 1981. H\u00ecnh \u1ea3nh c\u00f4ng n\u01b0\u01a1ng n\u01b0\u1edbc Anh trong chi\u1ebfc v\u00e1y c\u01b0\u1edbi v\u1edbi nh\u1eefng \u0111\u1eb7c tr\u01b0ng c\u1ee7a th\u1eadp ni\u00ean 1980 nh\u01b0 ph\u1ea7n tay \u00e1o ren ph\u1ed3ng, l\u00e0m b\u1eb1ng l\u1ee5a taffeta m\u00e0u tr\u1eafng ng\u00e0 tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh m\u1ed9t thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf mang t\u00ednh bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng c\u1ee7a ng\u00e0nh th\u1eddi trang. \u0110i\u1ec3m \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t c\u1ee7a chi\u1ebfc v\u00e1y \u0111\u1ebfn t\u1eeb nh\u1eefng m\u1ea3nh sequin v\u00e0 10.000 vi\u00ean ng\u1ecdc trai \u0111\u00ednh k\u1ebft th\u1ee7 c\u00f4ng, t\u1ea1o th\u00e0nh h\u1ecda ti\u1ebft tr\u00e1i tim tr\u00ean th\u00e2n. Nh\u1eefng l\u1edbp v\u1ea3i ren tr\u00ean v\u00e1y c\u01b0\u1edbi l\u1ea5y t\u1eeb trang ph\u1ee5c c\u0169 c\u1ee7a N\u1eef ho\u00e0ng Mary v\u00e0 ph\u1ea7n th\u00e2n sau t\u1ea1o \u0111i\u1ec3m nh\u1ea5n v\u1edbi chi ti\u1ebft th\u1eaft n\u01a1 nh\u1ecf m\u00e0u xanh. C\u00f4ng n\u01b0\u01a1ng Diana \u0111\u1ed9i v\u01b0\u01a1ng mi\u1ec7n kim c\u01b0\u01a1ng t\u1eeb d\u00f2ng h\u1ecd Spencer, mang gi\u00e0y tr\u1eafng \u0111\u00ednh k\u1ebft h\u00ecnh tr\u00e1i tim th\u00eau vi\u1ec1n \u0111\u0103ng ten, 524 h\u1ea1t kim tuy\u1ebfn, 132 vi\u00ean ng\u1ecdc trai v\u00e0 \u0111\u1ebf gi\u00e0y l\u00e0 hoa v\u0103n v\u1ebd tay. V\u1edbi ph\u1ea7n \u0111u\u00f4i v\u00e1y d\u00e0i h\u01a1n 7m, thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf n\u00e0y tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh chi\u1ebfc v\u00e1y c\u01b0\u1edbi Ho\u00e0ng gia d\u00e0i nh\u1ea5t trong l\u1ecbch s\u1eed.\"\"<\/p>\n

B\u00e0i vi\u1ebft li\u00ean quan:<\/strong><\/p>\n