{"id":151254,"date":"2023-11-06T00:00:58","date_gmt":"2023-11-05T17:00:58","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/s6.letweb.net\/heritage-fashion\/nang-luong-thoi-trang-new-york\/"},"modified":"2023-11-06T00:00:58","modified_gmt":"2023-11-05T17:00:58","slug":"nang-luong-thoi-trang-new-york","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/s6.letweb.net\/heritage-fashion\/nang-luong-thoi-trang-new-york\/","title":{"rendered":"N\u0103ng l\u01b0\u1ee3ng th\u1eddi trang New York"},"content":{"rendered":"

B\u00e0i LI\u00caU CH\u01af\u1edeNG
\n<\/strong>\u1ea2nh INTERNET<\/strong><\/p>\n

L\u00e0 m\u1ed9t trong b\u1ed1n \u201cth\u1ee7 ph\u1ee7\u201d th\u1eddi trang th\u1ebf gi\u1edbi, New York lu\u00f4n mang d\u00f2ng n\u0103ng l\u01b0\u1ee3ng kh\u00e1c bi\u1ec7t so v\u1edbi Paris, Milan hay London. T\u1ea1i th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 n\u00e0y, m\u1ecdi \u01b0\u1edbc m\u01a1 \u0111\u1ec1u c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh hi\u1ec7n th\u1ef1c khi b\u1ea1n n\u1ed7 l\u1ef1c v\u01b0\u01a1n l\u00ean v\u00e0 b\u1ee9t ph\u00e1 b\u1eb1ng l\u1ed1i \u0111i ri\u00eang.<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n

\"Ng\u01b0\u1eddi
Thu\u031bo\u031bng hi\u1eb9\u0302u Oscar de la Renta tre\u0302n sa\u0300n di\u00ea\u0303n Thu-\u0110o\u0302ng 2019<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

T\u1eeb <\/strong>L<\/strong>ower <\/strong>E<\/strong>ast <\/strong>S<\/strong>ide \u0111\u1ebfn <\/strong>G<\/strong>arment <\/strong>D<\/strong>istrict<\/strong><\/p>\n

Gi\u1ed1ng nh\u01b0 tu\u1ed5i tr\u1ebb c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1, th\u1eddi trang \u0111\u1ebfn v\u1edbi New York v\u00e0o giai \u0111o\u1ea1n cu\u1ed1i th\u1eadp ni\u00ean 1880, khi Hoa K\u1ef3 \u0111\u00f3n nh\u1eadn h\u00e0ng tri\u1ec7u ng\u01b0\u1eddi Do Th\u00e1i nh\u1eadp c\u01b0 t\u1eeb \u0110\u00f4ng \u00c2u. Th\u1eddi \u1ea5y, th\u1eddi trang may s\u1eb5n \u0111ang ph\u1ed5 bi\u1ebfn v\u00e0 c\u1ea5p thi\u1ebft, \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t khi cu\u1ed9c n\u1ed9i chi\u1ebfn n\u1ed5 ra, d\u1eabn \u0111\u1ebfn nhu c\u1ea7u nh\u00e2n l\u1ef1c tham gia ho\u1ea1t \u0111\u1ed9ng may m\u1eb7c t\u0103ng cao. T\u1eeb \u0111\u00f3, h\u00e0ng lo\u1ea1t x\u01b0\u1edfng may ch\u1eadt k\u00edn v\u00e0 ng\u1ed9t ng\u1ea1t b\u1edfi l\u01b0\u1ee3ng ng\u01b0\u1eddi v\u00e0 \u0111i\u1ec1u ki\u1ec7n sinh ho\u1ea1t kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u1ea3m b\u1ea3o ra \u0111\u1eddi t\u1ea1i khu Lower East Side.<\/p>\n

Sau nhi\u1ec1u l\u1ea7n di d\u1eddi v\u00e0 b\u1ecb xua \u0111u\u1ed5i b\u1edfi c\u00e1c t\u1ea7ng l\u1edbp qu\u00fd t\u1ed9c trong m\u1ed7i khu ph\u1ed1, t\u1eadp th\u1ec3 c\u00e1c x\u01b0\u1edfng may \u0111\u00e3 chuy\u1ec3n \u0111\u1ebfn The Tenderloin \u2013 m\u1ed9t n\u01a1i \u201cngo\u00e0i r\u00eca x\u00e3 h\u1ed9i\u201d c\u1ee7a Manhattan tr\u00ean con \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng Seventh Avenue th\u1eddi b\u1ea5y gi\u1edd, n\u01a1i ch\u1ec9 b\u1eaft g\u1eb7p to\u00e0n nh\u1eefng nh\u00e0 ch\u1ee9a, \u1ed5 c\u1edd b\u1ea1c, h\u1ed1 n\u01b0\u1edbc b\u1ea9n v\u00e0 qu\u00e1n r\u01b0\u1ee3u. Tuy nhi\u00ean, \u0111\u00f3 l\u1ea1i l\u00e0 c\u01a1 h\u1ed9i b\u00e9o b\u1edf d\u00e0nh cho c\u00e1c \u00f4ng ch\u1ee7 x\u01b0\u1edfng may, khi h\u1ecd ch\u1ec9 c\u1ea7n chi tr\u1ea3 ti\u1ec1n nh\u00e0 v\u1edbi con s\u1ed1 \u00edt \u1ecfi. V\u00e0 th\u1ebf l\u00e0 Garment District ra \u0111\u1eddi t\u1eeb th\u1eadp ni\u00ean 1920, nhanh ch\u00f3ng tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh m\u1ed9t trong nh\u1eefng trung t\u00e2m s\u1ea3n xu\u1ea5t h\u00e0ng may m\u1eb7c l\u1edbn m\u1ea1nh h\u00e0ng \u0111\u1ea7u th\u1ebf gi\u1edbi. \u0110\u1ebfn n\u0103m 1960, 75% th\u1eddi trang n\u1eef v\u00e0 tr\u1ebb em Hoa K\u1ef3 \u0111\u1ec1u \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c t\u1eadp trung s\u1ea3n xu\u1ea5t t\u1ea1i Garment District.<\/p>\n

\"Ph\u1ed1
Hi\u0300nh a\u0309nh s\u00f4\u0301ng \u0111\u1ecd\u0302ng v\u00ea\u0300 Garment District na\u0306m 1960<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

V\u1edbi v\u1ecb tr\u00ed c\u1ef1c k\u1ef3 thu\u1eadn l\u1ee3i \u0111\u1ec3 ti\u1ebfp c\u1eadn kh\u00e1ch h\u00e0ng ti\u1ec1m n\u0103ng \u2013 ngay t\u1ea1i trung t\u00e2m Manhattan, Seventh Avenue thu h\u00fat r\u1ea5t nhi\u1ec1u th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u th\u1eddi trang. Trong \u0111\u00f3, m\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 nh\u00e0 thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf n\u1ed5i ti\u1ebfng nh\u01b0 Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Donna Karan hay Oscar de la Renta, h\u1ecd \u0111\u1ec1u l\u00e0 ng\u01b0\u1eddi M\u1ef9 g\u1ed1c Do Th\u00e1i, \u0111\u00e3 c\u00f3 nh\u1eefng b\u01b0\u1edbc \u0111i \u0111\u1ea7u ti\u00ean t\u1eeb khu ph\u1ed1 th\u1eddi trang nh\u1ed9n nh\u1ecbp n\u00e0y. T\u1eeb n\u01a1i \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c x\u00e2y d\u1ef1ng cho nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi nh\u1eadp c\u01b0 kh\u1ed1n kh\u00f3, Garment District v\u00e0 Manhattan ph\u00e1t tri\u1ec3n \u0111\u1ec3 tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh m\u1ed9t trong nh\u1eefng n\u1ec1n t\u1ea3ng quan tr\u1ecdng, gi\u00fap New York nhanh ch\u00f3ng chuy\u1ec3n m\u00ecnh th\u00e0nh kinh \u0111\u00f4 th\u1eddi trang s\u00f4i \u0111\u1ed9ng nh\u1ea5t nh\u00ec th\u1ebf gi\u1edbi.<\/p>\n

L\u1eddi kh\u1eb3ng \u0111\u1ecbnh \u0111anh th\u00e9p<\/strong><\/p>\n

Tr\u01b0\u1edbc nh\u1eefng n\u0103m 1940, Paris g\u1ea7n nh\u01b0 l\u00e0 trung t\u00e2m duy nh\u1ea5t cho m\u1ecdi ho\u1ea1t \u0111\u1ed9ng th\u1eddi trang t\u1ea7m c\u1ee1 qu\u1ed1c t\u1ebf. Charles Frederick Worth, v\u1ecb cha \u0111\u1ebb c\u1ee7a th\u1eddi trang Haute Couture, ch\u00ednh l\u00e0 ng\u01b0\u1eddi m\u1edf \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng cho nh\u1eefng show di\u1ec5n th\u1eddi trang \u0111\u1ea7u ti\u00ean c\u1ee7a th\u1ebf gi\u1edbi, khi \u00f4ng quy\u1ebft \u0111\u1ecbnh t\u1ed5 ch\u1ee9c nh\u1eefng bu\u1ed5i \u201csalon shows\u201d (show di\u1ec5n trong c\u1eeda h\u00e0ng), v\u1edbi \u0111\u1ecbnh k\u1ef3 hai n\u0103m m\u1ed9t l\u1ea7n v\u00e0 ch\u1ec9 m\u1eddi nh\u1eefng v\u1ecb kh\u00e1ch th\u00e2n quen. H\u00ecnh th\u1ee9c show di\u1ec5n nh\u01b0 v\u1eady mau ch\u00f3ng lan r\u1ed9ng sang Hoa K\u1ef3, v\u00e0 ph\u00e1t tri\u1ec3n th\u00e0nh m\u1ed9t quy m\u00f4 r\u1ea7m r\u1ed9 h\u01a1n, \u0111\u1eadm t\u00ednh tr\u00ecnh di\u1ec5n v\u00e0 ch\u1ea5t ngh\u1ec7 thu\u1eadt h\u01a1n.<\/p>\n

B\u01b0\u1edbc v\u00e0o th\u1eadp ni\u00ean 1940, Paris m\u1ea5t d\u1ea7n v\u1ecb th\u1ebf \u0111\u1ed9c t\u00f4n c\u1ee7a m\u00ecnh trong th\u1eddi trang khi n\u01b0\u1edbc Ph\u00e1p b\u01b0\u1edbc v\u00e0o Th\u1ebf chi\u1ebfn th\u1ee9 hai. Tr\u01b0\u1edbc t\u00ecnh c\u1ea3nh b\u1ea5t \u1ed5n \u0111\u00f3, Hoa K\u1ef3 v\u00f4 t\u00ecnh c\u00f3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c c\u01a1 h\u1ed9i thu\u1eadn l\u1ee3i \u0111\u1ec3 v\u01b0\u01a1n m\u00ecnh tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh kinh \u0111\u00f4 m\u1edbi c\u1ee7a th\u1eddi trang th\u1ebf gi\u1edbi, v\u00e0 h\u1ecd \u0111\u00e3 \u0111\u1ea1t \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111i\u1ec1u \u0111\u00f3 b\u1eb1ng m\u1ed9t s\u00e1ng ki\u1ebfn mang t\u00ednh l\u1ecbch s\u1eed c\u1ee7a nh\u00e0 b\u00e1o n\u1ed5i ti\u1ebfng Eleanor Lambert: t\u1ed5 ch\u1ee9c tu\u1ea7n l\u1ec5 b\u00e1o ch\u00ed d\u00e0nh cho c\u00e1c th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u th\u1eddi trang. Tu\u1ea7n l\u1ec5 \u0111\u1ea7u ti\u00ean v\u00e0o n\u0103m 1943 ch\u1ec9 \u0111\u01a1n gi\u1ea3n l\u00e0 chu\u1ed7i h\u1ecdp b\u00e1o \u0111\u01b0a tin v\u1ec1 nh\u1eefng b\u1ed9 s\u01b0u t\u1eadp v\u1eeba ra m\u1eaft, ng\u01b0\u1eddi mua ph\u1ea3i \u0111\u1eb7t h\u1eb9n v\u00e0 \u0111\u00edch th\u00e2n \u0111\u1ebfn ph\u00f2ng tr\u01b0ng b\u00e0y. T\u1eeb \u0111\u00e2y, nhi\u1ec1u t\u00e0i n\u0103ng th\u1eddi trang c\u1ee7a New York b\u1eaft \u0111\u1ea7u \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ch\u00fa \u00fd v\u00e0 c\u00f4ng nh\u1eadn tr\u00ean c\u00e1c trang t\u1ea1p ch\u00ed danh ti\u1ebfng. D\u1ea7n d\u1ea7n, v\u1edbi s\u1ef1 ra \u0111\u1eddi c\u1ee7a \u201cFashion Calendar\u201d \u2013 c\u01a1 ch\u1ebf l\u1ecbch di\u1ec5n do Ruth Finley t\u1ea1o ra \u0111\u1ec3 \u0111\u1ea3m b\u1ea3o c\u00e1c th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u kh\u00f4ng tr\u00f9ng th\u1eddi gian t\u1ed5 ch\u1ee9c show, ng\u00e0y c\u00e0ng nhi\u1ec1u th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u tham gia. Khi phong c\u00e1ch th\u1eddi trang c\u00e0ng \u0111a d\u1ea1ng th\u00ec nhu c\u1ea7u t\u00ecm ki\u1ebfm v\u00e0 x\u00e2y d\u1ef1ng b\u1ed1i c\u1ea3nh ph\u00f9 h\u1ee3p cho show di\u1ec5n c\u0169ng c\u1ea7n \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t h\u01a1n, v\u00e0 m\u1ed7i th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u \u0111\u1ec1u c\u00f3 cho m\u00ecnh m\u1ed9t \u0111\u1ecba \u0111i\u1ec3m t\u1ed5 ch\u1ee9c ri\u00eang.<\/p>\n

\"Ng\u01b0\u1eddi
Show di\u00ea\u0303n No.13 cu\u0309a Alexander McQueen \u0111\u00ea\u0309 la\u0323i d\u00e2\u0301u \u00e2\u0301n trong li\u0323ch s\u01b0\u0309 th\u01a1\u0300i trang<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

N\u0103m 1962, Lambert th\u00e0nh l\u1eadp H\u1ed9i \u0111\u1ed3ng c\u00e1c Nh\u00e0 thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf Th\u1eddi trang Hoa K\u1ef3 (CFDA), ch\u00ednh th\u1ee9c th\u1ed1ng nh\u1ea5t c\u1ed9ng \u0111\u1ed3ng th\u1eddi trang th\u00e0nh m\u1ed9t t\u1ed5 ch\u1ee9c quy c\u1ee7 v\u00e0 c\u00f3 s\u1ee9c \u1ea3nh h\u01b0\u1edfng m\u1ea1nh m\u1ebd v\u1edbi th\u1ebf gi\u1edbi. Tr\u1ea3i qua nhi\u1ec1u bi\u1ebfn \u0111\u1ed9ng, \u0111\u1ebfn nh\u1eefng n\u0103m 1990, Tu\u1ea7n l\u1ec5 Th\u1eddi trang m\u1edbi thay \u0111\u1ed5i quy c\u00e1ch t\u1ed5 ch\u1ee9c, quy t\u1ee5 t\u1ea5t c\u1ea3 th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u v\u1ec1 c\u00f9ng m\u1ed9t \u0111\u1ecba \u0111i\u1ec3m gi\u1ed1ng nh\u01b0 hi\u1ec7n nay. C\u0169ng trong giai \u0111o\u1ea1n n\u00e0y, ch\u00fang ta \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ch\u1ee9ng ki\u1ebfn nhi\u1ec1u c\u1ed9t m\u1ed1c \u0111\u00e1ng nh\u1edb c\u1ee7a th\u1eddi trang New York v\u00e0 Hoa K\u1ef3: thay \u0111\u1ed5i l\u1ecbch di\u1ec5n h\u00e0ng n\u0103m t\u1eeb th\u00e1ng 11 sang th\u00e1ng 9, show di\u1ec5n phong c\u00e1ch \u201cgrunge\u201d (c\u1ea3m h\u1ee9ng t\u1eeb nh\u1ea1c rock) tranh c\u00e3i c\u1ee7a Marc Jacobs cho th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u Perry Ellis (1993), Kate Moss l\u1ea7n \u0111\u1ea7u s\u1ea3i b\u01b0\u1edbc tr\u00ean s\u00e0n catwalk c\u00f9ng Calvin Klein (1993), Helmut Lang ch\u00ednh th\u1ee9c \u201cra m\u1eaft\u201d Manhattan b\u1eb1ng show di\u1ec5n debut (1998) v\u00e0 m\u00e0n tr\u00ecnh di\u1ec5n \u0111\u1ea7u tay \u201c\u0111\u1ea7y gi\u00f4ng b\u00e3o\u201d c\u1ee7a th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u Alexander McQueen t\u1ea1i Tu\u1ea7n l\u1ec5 (1999). V\u00e0 c\u0169ng t\u1eeb Tu\u1ea7n l\u1ec5 Th\u1eddi trang New York (New York Fashion Week), m\u1ecdi ng\u01b0\u1eddi b\u1eaft \u0111\u1ea7u nh\u00ecn th\u1ea5y s\u1ef1 xu\u1ea5t hi\u1ec7n ng\u00e0y m\u1ed9t nhi\u1ec1u c\u1ee7a nh\u1eefng ng\u00f4i sao gi\u1ea3i tr\u00ed tr\u00ean h\u00e0ng gh\u1ebf \u0111\u1ea7u (front row) nh\u01b0 Julia Roberts, Leonardo DiCaprio, Drew Barrymore hay Mariah Carey. Cho \u0111\u1ebfn ng\u00e0y nay, New York Fashion Week v\u1eabn ti\u1ebfp t\u1ee5c l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t trong b\u1ed1n tu\u1ea7n l\u1ec5 th\u1eddi trang \u0111\u00e1ng mong ch\u1edd nh\u1ea5t th\u1ebf gi\u1edbi, ghi d\u1ea5u b\u1edfi nh\u1eefng c\u00e1 t\u00ednh s\u00e1ng t\u1ea1o t\u1ef1 do, ph\u00e1 c\u00e1ch v\u00e0 kh\u00f4ng ng\u1eebng \u0111\u1ed5i m\u1edbi.<\/p>\n

Kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 ri\u00eang s\u00e0n di\u1ec5n th\u1eddi trang cao c\u1ea5p, New York c\u00f2n l\u00e0 c\u00e1i n\u00f4i c\u1ee7a nhi\u1ec1u phong c\u00e1ch th\u1eddi trang v\u00e0 v\u0103n h\u00f3a gi\u1edbi tr\u1ebb nh\u01b0 hip-hop, th\u1ec3 thao, grunge, hippie hay Y2K. M\u1ecdi bi\u1ebfn chuy\u1ec3n trong c\u00e1ch \u0103n m\u1eb7c n\u01a1i \u0111\u00e2y \u0111\u1ec1u c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 l\u00e0 ti\u1ec1n \u0111\u1ec1 cho nh\u1eefng xu h\u01b0\u1edbng to\u00e0n c\u1ea7u. V\u1edbi ngu\u1ed3n n\u0103ng l\u01b0\u1ee3ng \u0111\u1ea7y tr\u1ebb trung, kh\u00f4ng ng\u1eebng kh\u1eb3ng \u0111\u1ecbnh b\u1ea3n th\u00e2n b\u1eb1ng l\u1ed1i \u0111i ri\u00eang, New York l\u00e0 ngu\u1ed3n c\u1ea3m h\u1ee9ng kh\u00f4ng th\u1ec3 thi\u1ebfu v\u00e0 kh\u00f4ng gi\u1edbi h\u1ea1n cho t\u01b0\u01a1ng lai c\u1ee7a ng\u00e0nh th\u1eddi trang, bi\u1ebfn nh\u1eefng \u00fd t\u01b0\u1edfng \u0111\u1ed9c \u0111\u00e1o tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh t\u00e1c ph\u1ea9m th\u1eddi trang bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng qua t\u1eebng th\u1eddi \u0111\u1ea1i.\"\"<\/p>\n

Xem th\u00eam b\u00e0i vi\u1ebft c\u00f9ng chuy\u00ean m\u1ee5c:<\/strong><\/p>\n