{"id":151258,"date":"2023-11-13T04:00:01","date_gmt":"2023-11-12T21:00:01","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/s6.letweb.net\/heritage-fashion\/tieng-vang-cua-sang-trong-tham-lang\/"},"modified":"2023-11-13T04:00:01","modified_gmt":"2023-11-12T21:00:01","slug":"tieng-vang-cua-sang-trong-tham-lang","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/s6.letweb.net\/heritage-fashion\/tieng-vang-cua-sang-trong-tham-lang\/","title":{"rendered":"Ti\u1ebfng vang c\u1ee7a sang tr\u1ecdng th\u1ea7m l\u1eb7ng"},"content":{"rendered":"

B\u00e0i MINH NH\u1eacT
\n\u1ea2nh TH\u01af\u01a0NG HI\u1ec6U CUNG C\u1ea4P<\/strong><\/p>\n

Ng\u00e0y nay, sang tr\u1ecdng kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 l\u00e0 \u0111\u1eaft ti\u1ec1n, m\u00e0 c\u00f2n c\u00f3 ngh\u0129a l\u00e0 s\u1ef1 tho\u1ea3i m\u00e1i, ch\u1ea5t l\u01b0\u1ee3ng t\u1ed1t v\u00e0 ti\u1ebft ki\u1ec7m th\u1eddi gian.<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n

\"Ng\u01b0\u1eddi
Gigi Hadid tri\u0300nh di\u00ea\u0303n BST Victoria Beckham Xua\u0302n-He\u0300 2023<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

T\u1eeb tinh th\u1ea7n t\u1ed1i gi\u1ea3n<\/strong><\/p>\n

Th\u1eddi \u0111i\u1ec3m k\u1ebft th\u00fac n\u0103m 2022 c\u0169ng l\u00e0 l\u00fac th\u1eddi trang th\u1ebf gi\u1edbi m\u1ed9t l\u1ea7n n\u1eefa \u0111\u00f3n nh\u1eadn s\u1ef1 l\u00ean ng\u00f4i c\u1ee7a ch\u1ee7 ngh\u0129a t\u1ed1i gi\u1ea3n. Sau khi xu h\u01b0\u1edbng t\u1ed1i \u0111a ho\u00e0n th\u00e0nh nhi\u1ec7m v\u1ee5 l\u1ea5p \u0111\u1ea7y m\u00e0u s\u1eafc v\u00e0o v\u1ebb \u1ea3m \u0111\u1ea1m c\u1ee7a \u0111\u1ea1i d\u1ecbch, th\u1ebf gi\u1edbi \u0111\u00e3 s\u1eb5n s\u00e0ng b\u1ecf n\u1ed7i bu\u1ed3n l\u1ea1i ph\u00eda sau v\u00e0 b\u01b0\u1edbc ti\u1ebfp. C\u0169ng t\u1eeb \u0111\u00e2y, \u201csang tr\u1ecdng th\u1ea7m l\u1eb7ng\u201d (quiet luxury) \u2013 m\u1ed9t xu h\u01b0\u1edbng ph\u00e1t tri\u1ec3n t\u1eeb phong c\u00e1ch t\u1ed1i gi\u1ea3n d\u1ea7n nhen nh\u00f3m v\u00e0 kh\u1eb3ng \u0111\u1ecbnh v\u1ecb th\u1ebf c\u1ee7a m\u00ecnh. Xu h\u01b0\u1edbng n\u00e0y \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c hi\u1ec3u ng\u1eafn g\u1ecdn nh\u01b0 sau: Gi\u00e1 tr\u1ecb c\u1ee7a th\u1eddi trang \u201cth\u00ec th\u1ea7m\u201d b\u00ean kh\u00e1ch h\u00e0ng b\u1eb1ng ch\u1ea5t l\u01b0\u1ee3ng, thay v\u00ec \u201cg\u00e0o th\u00e9t\u201d b\u1eb1ng logo hay h\u1ecda ti\u1ebft ph\u1ee9c t\u1ea1p.<\/p>\n

Nh\u01b0 r\u1ea5t nhi\u1ec1u xu h\u01b0\u1edbng kh\u00e1c, phim \u1ea3nh v\u00e0 truy\u1ec1n h\u00ecnh l\u00e0 c\u1ea7u n\u1ed1i ho\u00e0n h\u1ea3o khi\u1ebfn quiet luxury tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh hi\u1ec7n t\u01b0\u1ee3ng l\u1edbn. Lo\u1ea1t phim Succession (K\u1ebf nghi\u1ec7p) \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u00e1nh gi\u00e1 l\u00e0 s\u1ef1 kh\u1eafc h\u1ecda g\u1ea7n g\u0169i nh\u1ea5t v\u1ec1 c\u00e1ch t\u1ea7ng l\u1edbp th\u01b0\u1ee3ng l\u01b0u \u0103n m\u1eb7c v\u00e0 h\u00e0nh x\u1eed. Nh\u00e0 v\u0103n Leandra Medine mi\u00eau t\u1ea3 nh\u01b0 sau: \u201cThi\u1ebft th\u1ef1c v\u00e0 h\u1ee3p l\u00fd, k\u00edn \u0111\u00e1o v\u00e0 xa c\u00e1ch, \u0111\u01a1n gi\u1ea3n nh\u01b0ng quy\u1ec1n l\u1ef1c\u201d khi b\u1ed9 qu\u1ea7n \u00e1o l\u1eb7ng l\u1ebd rung l\u00ean h\u1ed3i chu\u00f4ng b\u00e1o hi\u1ec7u cho m\u00e0n xu\u1ea5t hi\u1ec7n c\u1ee7a gi\u1edbi si\u00eau gi\u00e0u. M\u1ed9t trong nh\u1eefng m\u00f3n \u0111\u1ed3 n\u1ed5i b\u1eadt trong phim l\u00e0 \u00e1o kho\u00e1c bomber \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c d\u1ec7t t\u1eeb len Merino v\u00e0 h\u1ed7n h\u1ee3p v\u1ea3i cashmere ph\u1ed1i da l\u1ed9n c\u1ee7a Tom Ford v\u1edbi gi\u00e1 b\u00e1n l\u1ebb g\u1ea7n 7.000 USD, m\u0169 b\u00f3ng ch\u00e0y cashmere kh\u00f4ng logo, m\u00e0u trung t\u00ednh \u0111\u1ebfn t\u1eeb Loro Piana, hay \u00e1o ph\u00f4ng m\u00e0u n\u00e2u c\u00f3 thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf h\u1ebft s\u1ee9c c\u01a1 b\u1ea3n \u0111\u1ebfn t\u1eeb Maison Margiela. Trong t\u1ee7 \u0111\u1ed3 c\u1ee7a nh\u00e2n v\u1eadt ch\u00ednh Kendall Logan Roy, t\u1ea5t c\u1ea3 \u0111\u1ec1u \u0111\u1ebfn t\u1eeb c\u00e1c th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u xa x\u1ec9 h\u00e0ng \u0111\u1ea7u th\u1ebf gi\u1edbi.<\/p>\n

S\u1ef1 th\u1eadt l\u00e0, Succession kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i lo\u1ea1t phim v\u1ec1 th\u1eddi trang, Kendall v\u00e0 c\u1ea3 gia \u0111\u00ecnh t\u1ef7 ph\u00fa Roy kh\u00f4ng h\u1ec1 quan t\u00e2m t\u1edbi th\u1eddi trang. Nh\u1eefng g\u00ec h\u1ecd \u0111\u1ec3 t\u00e2m l\u00e0 chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o ph\u00f4ng t\u1ed1t nh\u1ea5t trong t\u1ea5t c\u1ea3 nh\u1eefng m\u1eabu \u00e1o ph\u00f4ng t\u1ed1t, chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o len Merino \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c d\u1ec7t c\u1ea9n th\u1eadn nh\u1ea5t, hay b\u1ed9 suit v\u1edbi \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng c\u1eaft tinh x\u1ea3o nh\u1ea5t. H\u1ecd kh\u00f4ng h\u1ec1 th\u1ea7m l\u1eb7ng, c\u00e1ch \u201ckhoe khoang\u201d c\u1ee7a h\u1ecd n\u1eb1m \u1edf vi\u1ec7c b\u1ea3n th\u00e2n lu\u00f4n \u01b0u ti\u00ean s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng s\u1ea3n ph\u1ea9m v\u00e0 d\u1ecbch v\u1ee5 \u0111\u1eb3ng c\u1ea5p, th\u1eddi trang ch\u1ec9 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t trong s\u1ed1 \u0111\u00f3. D\u00f9 v\u1eady, \u00edt nh\u1ea5t th\u00ec Succession c\u0169ng \u0111\u00e3 ph\u1ea7n n\u00e0o b\u1ed5 sung cho \u0111\u1ecbnh ngh\u0129a v\u1ec1 sang tr\u1ecdng th\u1ea7m l\u1eb7ng m\u1ed9t c\u00e1ch \u0111\u00fang \u0111\u1eafn, r\u1eb1ng ngo\u00e0i v\u1ebb xa hoa \u1ed3n \u00e0o, k\u1ebb th\u00f9 c\u1ee7a xu h\u01b0\u1edbng n\u00e0y c\u00f2n l\u00e0 th\u1eddi trang nhanh gi\u00e1 r\u1ebb.<\/p>\n

\"Kendall
Trang phu\u0323c cu\u0309a nha\u0302n v\u1ea1\u0302t Kendall Logan Roy trong Succession<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Ti\u1ebfn v\u00e0o c\u00e1c th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u<\/strong><\/p>\n

V\u00e0o kho\u1ea3nh kh\u1eafc xa x\u1ec9 th\u1ea7m l\u1eb7ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c coi l\u00e0 xa x\u1ec9 \u0111\u00edch th\u1ef1c, xu h\u01b0\u1edbng n\u00e0y ngay l\u1eadp t\u1ee9c ti\u1ebfm ng\u00f4i v\u01b0\u01a1ng trong l\u00f2ng c\u00e1c nh\u00e0 m\u1ed1t l\u1edbn, \u0111i\u1ec3n h\u00ecnh l\u00e0 Gucci, m\u1ed9t trong nh\u1eefng bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng th\u00e0nh c\u00f4ng v\u1edbi phong c\u00e1ch t\u1ed1i \u0111a. Sau s\u1ef1 ra \u0111i c\u1ee7a Gi\u00e1m \u0111\u1ed1c s\u00e1ng t\u1ea1o Alessandro Michele, Gucci t\u1ed1i gi\u1ea3n h\u00f3a tinh th\u1ea7n th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u tr\u00ean s\u00e0n catwalk Thu-\u0110\u00f4ng 2023: G\u1ea1t b\u1ecf trang s\u1ee9c nhi\u1ec1u nh\u1ea5t c\u00f3 th\u1ec3, ti\u1ebft ch\u1ebf t\u00f4ng m\u00e0u n\u1ed5i v\u00e0 \u0111\u1ea9y m\u1ea1nh t\u00ednh \u1ee9ng d\u1ee5ng. Tuy \u0111\u00e2y ch\u01b0a thu\u1ea7n t\u00fay l\u00e0 b\u1ed9 s\u01b0u t\u1eadp (BST) t\u1ed1i gi\u1ea3n, nh\u01b0ng r\u00f5 r\u00e0ng l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t s\u1ef1 n\u1ed7 l\u1ef1c c\u1ee7a Gucci, \u0111\u1ed3ng th\u1eddi duy tr\u00ec h\u00ecnh \u1ea3nh b\u00f3ng b\u1ea9y \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c gi\u1edbi m\u1ed9 \u0111i\u1ec7u t\u00f4n s\u00f9ng trong kho\u1ea3ng th\u1eddi gian 2016 t\u1edbi 2022.<\/p>\n

C\u00f9ng l\u00fac \u0111\u00f3, Bottega Veneta \u0111\u01b0a ra \u0111\u00e1p \u00e1n thuy\u1ebft ph\u1ee5c cho c\u00e2u h\u1ecfi kh\u00f3: \u201cV\u1eady nh\u1eefng th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c bi\u1ebft \u0111\u1ebfn v\u1edbi gu th\u1ea9m m\u1ef9 t\u1ed1i gi\u1ea3n s\u1ebd l\u00e0m g\u00ec khi gi\u1edd \u0111\u00e2y, phong c\u00e1ch h\u1ecd theo \u0111u\u1ed5i tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh xu h\u01b0\u1edbng?\u201d. Tr\u01b0\u1edbc khi c\u1ea3 th\u1ebf gi\u1edbi n\u00f3i v\u1ec1 quiet luxury, Bottega Veneta v\u00e0 Daniel Lee \u0111\u00e3 ho\u00e0n thi\u1ec7n xu h\u01b0\u1edbng n\u00e0y b\u1eb1ng m\u1ed9t b\u1ed9 \u201clogo v\u00f4 h\u00ecnh\u201d mang t\u00ean \u201cBottega Green\u201d \u2013 m\u00e0u xanh l\u00e1 \u0111\u1eb7c tr\u01b0ng c\u1ee7a th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u. Sau khi Daniel Lee r\u1eddi \u0111i, \u201cBottega Green\u201d d\u1ea7n \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c c\u1eaft gi\u1ea3m. Thay v\u00ec t\u1eadn d\u1ee5ng s\u1eafc xanh tr\u00ean s\u1ea3n ph\u1ea9m, gi\u00e1m \u0111\u1ed1c s\u00e1ng t\u1ea1o m\u1edbi cho ra nh\u1eefng \u00fd t\u01b0\u1edfng t\u1ed1i gi\u1ea3n v\u01b0\u1ee3t tr\u1ed9i v\u1ec1 ch\u1ea5t l\u01b0\u1ee3ng. C\u00e2y b\u00fat th\u1eddi trang Nicole Phelps vi\u1ebft v\u1ec1 BST Bottega Veneta Thu-\u0110\u00f4ng 2022 tr\u00ean Vogue Runway r\u1eb1ng: \u201c\u0110\u01a1n gi\u1ea3n v\u00e0 trung th\u1ef1c, ch\u01b0a k\u1ec3 \u0111\u1ebfn s\u1ef1 sang tr\u1ecdng. V\u1eabn r\u1ea5t d\u1ec5 nh\u1eadn bi\u1ebft v\u00e0 kh\u00f4ng bao gi\u1edd l\u1ed7i m\u1ed1t\u201d. \u0110\u1ecbnh h\u01b0\u1edbng m\u1edbi khi\u1ebfn Bottega Veneta v\u01b0\u1ee3t m\u1eb7t phong tr\u00e0o t\u1ed1i gi\u1ea3n \u0111\u01a1n thu\u1ea7n.<\/p>\n

\"Ng\u01b0\u1eddi
BST Ch\u01a1\u0301m Thu 2023 cu\u0309a The Row<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

M\u1eb7c theo xu h\u01b0\u1edbng hay m\u1eb7c k\u1ec7 xu h\u01b0\u1edbng?<\/strong><\/p>\n

B\u00ean c\u1ea1nh c\u00e1c nh\u00e0 m\u1ed1t l\u1edbn, sang tr\u1ecdng th\u1ea7m l\u1eb7ng c\u00f2n hi\u1ec7n di\u1ec7n \u1edf c\u1ea3 c\u00e1c th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u \u201cfast fashion\u201d (th\u1eddi trang nhanh). Kh\u00e1ch quan m\u00e0 n\u00f3i, quiet luxury v\u1eabn l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t xu h\u01b0\u1edbng, n\u1ebfu kh\u00e1ch h\u00e0ng ch\u1ec9 mu\u1ed1n tr\u00f4ng h\u1ee3p th\u1eddi, th\u1eddi trang nhanh v\u1eabn \u0111\u1ee7 s\u1ee9c \u0111\u00e1p \u1ee9ng ngay l\u1eadp t\u1ee9c. Ch\u00fang ta s\u1ebd ch\u1ec9 bi\u1ebft chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o kho\u00e1c m\u00e0u \u0111en l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t m\u00f3n h\u00e0ng xa x\u1ec9 n\u1ebfu quan s\u00e1t th\u1eadt k\u1ef9 c\u00e1c chi ti\u1ebft v\u00e0 nh\u00ecn th\u1ea5y t\u00ean th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c th\u00eau \u1edf l\u1edbp v\u1ea3i trong c\u00f9ng. Quiet luxury d\u1ec5 d\u00e0ng ti\u1ebfn v\u00e0o t\u1ee7 \u0111\u1ed3 c\u1ee7a t\u1ea5t c\u1ea3 m\u1ecdi ng\u01b0\u1eddi th\u00f4ng qua th\u1eddi trang nhanh. \u0110\u00e2y ch\u00ednh l\u00e0 l\u00fac sang tr\u1ecdng th\u1ea7m l\u1eb7ng m\u1ea5t \u0111i danh hi\u1ec7u xa x\u1ec9 \u0111\u00edch th\u1ef1c m\u00e0 c\u1ed9ng \u0111\u1ed3ng th\u1eddi trang \u0111ang t\u00f4n s\u00f9ng.<\/p>\n

T\u00e1c gi\u1ea3 Sophie Lou Wilson vi\u1ebft tr\u00ean t\u1ea1p ch\u00ed The Face r\u1eb1ng, ti\u00eau d\u00f9ng th\u1eddi trang gi\u00e1 r\u1ebb \u0111\u1ec3 c\u00f3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c h\u00ecnh \u1ea3nh sang tr\u1ecdng th\u1ea7m l\u1eb7ng theo xu h\u01b0\u1edbng ph\u1ea7n n\u00e0o b\u1ed9c l\u1ed9 suy ngh\u0129 th\u1ea7n t\u01b0\u1ee3ng h\u00f3a gi\u1edbi si\u00eau gi\u00e0u c\u1ee7a \u0111\u1ea1i ch\u00fang. \u0110\u00f3 l\u00e0 l\u1ed1i suy ngh\u0129 th\u00fac \u0111\u1ea9y s\u1ef1 b\u00e0nh tr\u01b0\u1edbng c\u1ee7a th\u1eddi trang nhanh v\u00e0 c\u00e1c \u201cxu h\u01b0\u1edbng vi m\u00f4\u201d (microtrends), nh\u1eefng t\u00e1c \u0111\u1ed9ng th\u00fac \u0111\u1ea9y ham mu\u1ed1n mua s\u1eafm \u201cv\u00f4 t\u1ed9i v\u1ea1\u201d c\u1ee7a \u0111\u00e1m \u0111\u00f4ng. Tuy nhi\u00ean, sang tr\u1ecdng th\u1ea7m l\u1eb7ng v\u1eabn c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 thi\u1ebft l\u1eadp tr\u1eadt t\u1ef1 n\u1ebfu th\u00e0nh c\u00f4ng trong vi\u1ec7c tho\u00e1t ly c\u00e1i m\u00e1c xu h\u01b0\u1edbng. Thay v\u00ec tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh gu th\u1ea9m m\u1ef9 nh\u1ea5t th\u1eddi v\u00e0 bi\u1ebfn m\u1ea5t sau m\u1ed9t m\u00f9a th\u1eddi trang, quiet luxury n\u00ean \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c hi\u1ec3u l\u00e0 c\u00f4ng c\u1ee5 th\u00fac \u0111\u1ea9y s\u1ea3n xu\u1ea5t b\u1ec1n v\u1eefng v\u00e0 th\u00f3i quen x\u00e2y d\u1ef1ng \u201ct\u1ee7 \u0111\u1ed3 thi\u1ebft y\u1ebfu\u201d (capsule wardrobe). Ngay c\u1ea3 khi m\u00f3n \u0111\u1ed3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c mua kh\u00f4ng thu\u1ed9c ph\u00e2n kh\u00fac cao xa x\u1ec9, m\u1ed9t t\u1ee7 \u0111\u1ed3 ch\u1ec9 v\u1edbi 10 m\u00f3n \u0111\u1ed3 ch\u1ea5t l\u01b0\u1ee3ng t\u1ed1t \u0111\u1ebfn t\u1eeb th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u b\u00ecnh d\u00e2n, v\u1eabn kh\u00e1 h\u01a1n m\u1ed9t t\u1ee7 \u0111\u1ed3 ch\u1ea5t \u0111\u1ea7y h\u00e0ng hi\u1ec7u l\u1eabn h\u00e0ng-kh\u00f4ng-hi\u1ec7u th\u1eeba m\u1ee9a v\u00e0 l\u00e3ng ph\u00ed. V\u00ec v\u1eady, ngay t\u1eeb b\u00e2y gi\u1edd, h\u00e3y m\u1eb7c nh\u1eefng chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o m\u1ec1m m\u1ea1i, di\u1ec7n b\u1ed9 suit may \u0111o ph\u00f9 h\u1ee3p, s\u1edf h\u1eefu chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o kho\u00e1c \u1ea5m \u00e1p, v\u00e0 thay \u0111\u1ed5i t\u01b0 duy.\"\"<\/p>\n

Xem th\u00eam b\u00e0i vi\u1ebft c\u00f9ng chuy\u00ean m\u1ee5c:<\/strong><\/p>\n