{"id":151286,"date":"2023-12-14T00:00:00","date_gmt":"2023-12-13T17:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/s6.letweb.net\/heritage-fashion\/tinh-than-do-thi\/"},"modified":"2023-12-14T00:00:00","modified_gmt":"2023-12-13T17:00:00","slug":"tinh-than-do-thi","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/s6.letweb.net\/heritage-fashion\/tinh-than-do-thi\/","title":{"rendered":"Tinh th\u1ea7n \u0111\u00f4 th\u1ecb"},"content":{"rendered":"

B\u00e0i H\u1eb0NG NGA
\n\u1ea2nh INTERNET<\/strong><\/p>\n

Nh\u1eefng tr\u00e0o l\u01b0u th\u1ea9m m\u1ef9 sinh ra t\u1eeb \u0111\u00f4 th\u1ecb \u0111\u00f3ng vai tr\u00f2 quan tr\u1ecdng v\u00e0 tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh ngu\u1ed3n c\u1ea3m h\u1ee9ng ch\u00ednh \u0111\u1ec3 c\u00e1c nh\u00e0 m\u1ed1t th\u1ebf gi\u1edbi t\u1ea1o n\u00ean v\u00f4 s\u1ed1 xu h\u01b0\u1edbng v\u00e0 phong c\u00e1ch c\u1ed1t l\u00f5i trong ng\u00e0nh th\u1eddi trang.<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n

\"Ng\u01b0\u1eddi<\/p>\n

Urban chic ph\u00f3ng kho\u00e1ng\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 <\/strong><\/p>\n

\u201cUrban chic\u201d l\u00e0 phong c\u00e1ch th\u1eddi trang g\u1eafn li\u1ec1n v\u1edbi nh\u1eefng c\u00f4 n\u00e0ng th\u00e0nh th\u1ecb hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i. H\u1ecd hi\u1ec3u r\u00f5 v\u1ec1 phong c\u00e1ch c\u00e1 nh\u00e2n, kh\u00f4ng c\u1ea7n ph\u00f4 tr\u01b0\u01a1ng m\u00e0 v\u1eabn to\u00e1t l\u00ean v\u1ebb \u1ea5n t\u01b0\u1ee3ng. T\u00ednh \u201curban\u201d (th\u00e0nh th\u1ecb) trong phong c\u00e1ch n\u00e0y \u0111\u1ec1 c\u1eadp \u0111\u1ebfn m\u1ed9t n\u00e9t th\u1ea9m m\u1ef9 ri\u00eang bi\u1ec7t, b\u1eaft ngu\u1ed3n t\u1eeb d\u00f2ng ch\u1ea3y x\u00e3 h\u1ed9i v\u00e0 h\u00f2a tr\u1ed9n v\u1edbi c\u00e1c ti\u1ec3u v\u0103n h\u00f3a \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng ph\u1ed1 kh\u00e1c nh\u01b0 nh\u1ea1c punk, hip-hop hay graffiti \u0111\u1ec3 th\u1ec3 hi\u1ec7n tinh th\u1ea7n t\u1ef1 do. T\u1eeb \u201cchic\u201d xu\u1ea5t hi\u1ec7n trong ti\u1ebfng Ph\u00e1p kho\u1ea3ng n\u0103m 1966, n\u1ed5i b\u1eadt l\u00e0 s\u1ef1 ki\u1ec7n Yves Saint Laurent cho ra m\u1eaft thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf kinh \u0111i\u1ec3n Le Smoking, b\u1ed9 vest \u0111\u1ea7u ti\u00ean d\u00e0nh cho ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef, mang phong c\u00e1ch \u201cchic\u201d lan t\u1ecfa to\u00e0n c\u1ea7u.<\/p>\n

Nh\u01b0 v\u1eady, urban chic l\u00e0 phong c\u00e1ch k\u1ebft h\u1ee3p tinh th\u1ea7n n\u0103ng \u0111\u1ed9ng v\u1edbi c\u00e1c y\u1ebfu t\u1ed1 sang tr\u1ecdng c\u1ee7a trang ph\u1ee5c may \u0111o th\u1ee7 c\u00f4ng. Nh\u1eefng c\u00f4 g\u00e1i theo \u0111u\u1ed5i phong c\u00e1ch n\u00e0y y\u00eau th\u00edch ki\u1ec3u ph\u1ed1i \u0111\u1ed3 nhi\u1ec1u l\u1edbp \u0111\u1ec3 t\u1ea1o chi\u1ec1u s\u00e2u cho trang ph\u1ee5c. Ta c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 m\u1eb7c qu\u1ea7n jeans v\u1edbi \u00e1o kho\u00e1c blazer hay \u00e1o s\u01a1 mi, hay ph\u1ed1i nh\u1eefng \u0111\u00f4i b\u1ed1t sang tr\u1ecdng v\u1edbi \u00e1o ph\u00f4ng r\u1ed9ng ho\u1eb7c \u00e1o len c\u1ed5 \u0111i\u1ec3n. Ngo\u00e0i ra, nh\u1eefng ph\u1ee5 ki\u1ec7n nh\u01b0 k\u00ednh r\u00e2m c\u1ee1 l\u1edbn v\u00e0 trang s\u1ee9c l\u1ea5p l\u00e1nh c\u0169ng l\u00e0 chi ti\u1ebft quan tr\u1ecdng l\u00e0m n\u00ean t\u1ed5ng th\u1ec3 trang ph\u1ee5c c\u1ee7a m\u1ed9t urban chic.<\/p>\n

\"Ng\u01b0\u1eddi<\/p>\n

Tuy\u00ean ng\u00f4n t\u1eeb \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng ph\u1ed1 <\/strong><\/p>\n

Kh\u00e1i ni\u1ec7m \u201cstreet style\u201d (th\u1eddi trang \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng ph\u1ed1) ch\u1eafc ch\u1eafn kh\u00f4ng c\u00f2n xa l\u1ea1 v\u1edbi nh\u1eefng ai y\u00eau m\u1ebfn tinh th\u1ea7n ph\u00e1 c\u00e1ch v\u00e0 t\u1ef1 do c\u1ee7a th\u1eddi trang. B\u1edfi l\u1ebd, \u0111i\u1ec3m m\u1ea5u ch\u1ed1t trong phong c\u00e1ch n\u00e0y l\u00e0 s\u1ef1 n\u0103ng \u0111\u1ed9ng v\u00e0 ng\u1eabu h\u1ee9ng, kh\u00f4ng g\u00f2 b\u00f3 trong nh\u1eefng quy chu\u1ea9n kh\u1eaft khe, m\u00e0 mang t\u00ednh t\u1ef1 do th\u1ec3 hi\u1ec7n b\u1ea3n s\u1eafc ri\u00eang.<\/p>\n

Trong d\u00f2ng ch\u1ea3y th\u1eddi trang, street style ng\u00e0y c\u00e0ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c c\u00f4ng nh\u1eadn t\u1eeb c\u00e1c nh\u00e0 thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf l\u1eabn nh\u00e0 m\u1ed1t h\u00e0ng \u0111\u1ea7u th\u1ebf gi\u1edbi. T\u1eeb \u201cstreet style\u201d l\u1ea7n \u0111\u1ea7u xu\u1ea5t hi\u1ec7n v\u00e0o n\u0103m 1978 b\u1edfi nhi\u1ebfp \u1ea3nh gia Bill Cunningham, ng\u01b0\u1eddi c\u00f3 \u0111am m\u00ea v\u1edbi vi\u1ec7c ghi l\u1ea1i nh\u1eefng b\u1ed9 c\u00e1nh th\u00fa v\u1ecb c\u1ee7a ng\u01b0\u1eddi \u0111i \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng tr\u00ean \u0111\u1ea1i l\u1ed9 Fifth Avenue t\u1ea1i New York, M\u1ef9. Song, thu\u1eadt ng\u1eef n\u00e0y ch\u1ec9 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c bi\u1ebft \u0111\u1ebfn r\u1ed9ng r\u00e3i h\u01a1n v\u00e0o th\u1eddi \u0111\u1ea1i truy\u1ec1n th\u00f4ng b\u00f9ng n\u1ed5 c\u1ee7a nh\u1eefng n\u0103m \u0111\u1ea7u th\u1eadp ni\u00ean 2000. C\u00e1c nhi\u1ebfp \u1ea3nh gia \u0111\u00e3 d\u1ea1o quanh c\u00e1c tu\u1ea7n l\u1ec5 th\u1eddi trang \u0111\u1ec3 t\u00ecm ki\u1ebfm nh\u1eefng khung h\u00ecnh \u1ea5n t\u01b0\u1ee3ng, c\u1ed9ng th\u00eam s\u1ef1 lan truy\u1ec1n c\u1ee7a m\u1ea1ng x\u00e3 h\u1ed9i, phong c\u00e1ch n\u00e0y tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh y\u1ebfu t\u1ed1 th\u1eddi trang quen thu\u1ed9c trong v\u0103n h\u00f3a \u0111\u1ea1i ch\u00fang. Nh\u1eefng b\u1ed9 trang ph\u1ee5c b\u1eaft m\u1eaft \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c chia s\u1ebb tr\u00ean c\u00e1c n\u1ec1n t\u1ea3ng m\u1ea1ng x\u00e3 h\u1ed9i, \u0111\u00e3 g\u00f3p ph\u1ea7n t\u1ea1o n\u00ean s\u1ef1 ph\u1ed5 bi\u1ebfn c\u1ee7a th\u1eddi trang \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng ph\u1ed1 \u0111\u1ebfn kh\u1eafp n\u01a1i tr\u00ean to\u00e0n c\u1ea7u.<\/p>\n

\"Ng\u01b0\u1eddi<\/p>\n

T\u01b0\u01a1ng lai b\u1ec1n v\u1eefng\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 <\/strong><\/p>\n

Ch\u1ee7 ngh\u0129a v\u1ecb lai (futuristic) l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t phong tr\u00e0o trong ngh\u1ec7 thu\u1eadt, \u00e2m nh\u1ea1c v\u00e0 v\u0103n h\u1ecdc b\u1eaft \u0111\u1ea7u \u1edf \u00dd. \u0110\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t, trong th\u1eddi trang, phong c\u00e1ch n\u00e0y \u0111\u1ea1i di\u1ec7n cho s\u1ef1 thay \u0111\u1ed5i, \u0111\u1ec3 nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi \u1edf th\u1ebf k\u1ef7 20 b\u1ecf l\u1ea1i qu\u00e1 kh\u1ee9 v\u00e0 th\u1eed nghi\u1ec7m nh\u1eefng \u00fd t\u01b0\u1edfng m\u1edbi cho t\u01b0\u01a1ng lai. V\u00e0o \u0111\u1ea7u nh\u1eefng n\u0103m 1920, ch\u1ee7 ngh\u0129a v\u1ecb lai g\u1eafn li\u1ec1n v\u1edbi vi\u1ec7c ph\u00e1 v\u1ee1 c\u00e1c quy t\u1eafc th\u1eddi trang v\u1ed1n \u0111\u01a1n gi\u1ea3n, c\u00e2n x\u1ee9ng, l\u1ecbch s\u1ef1 v\u00e0 th\u1ed1ng nh\u1ea5t. Th\u1eadp ni\u00ean 1950 v\u00e0 1960 l\u00e0 th\u1eddi k\u1ef3 \u201cretro futuristic\u201d (phong c\u00e1ch v\u1ecb lai c\u1ed5 \u0111i\u1ec3n) m\u01b0\u1ee3n \u00fd t\u01b0\u1edfng t\u1eeb \u201ccyberpunk\u201d (khoa h\u1ecdc vi\u1ec5n t\u01b0\u1edfng), nh\u1eb1m di\u1ec5n gi\u1ea3i v\u1ec1 b\u1ed9 \u0111\u1ed3 m\u00e0 lo\u00e0i ng\u01b0\u1eddi s\u1ebd trang b\u1ecb khi bay ra ngo\u00e0i v\u0169 tr\u1ee5.<\/p>\n

Ng\u00e0y nay, ch\u1ee7 ngh\u0129a v\u1ecb lai ph\u1ea3n \u00e1nh c\u00e1c lo\u1ea1i v\u1ea3i h\u00f3a h\u1ecdc v\u00e0 c\u00f4ng ngh\u1ec7 may \u0111o t\u00e2n ti\u1ebfn. Th\u1eddi trang b\u1ec1n v\u1eefng \u0111\u00e3 tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh tr\u1ecdng t\u00e2m c\u1ee7a phong c\u00e1ch n\u00e0y, khi ch\u00fang ta t\u00ecm c\u00e1ch gi\u1ea3m t\u1ea3i l\u01b0\u1ee3ng kh\u00ed th\u1ea3i v\u00e0 r\u00e1c th\u1ea3i c\u1ee7a ng\u00e0nh may m\u1eb7c, kh\u00e1m ph\u00e1 c\u00e1ch t\u00e1i ch\u1ebf v\u00e0 b\u1ea3o t\u1ed3n t\u00e0i nguy\u00ean qua nh\u1eefng ti\u1ebfn b\u1ed9 khoa h\u1ecdc. Ng\u01b0\u1eddi ta lu\u00f4n ngh\u0129 kim lo\u1ea1i \u0111\u00e3 l\u00e0m n\u00ean s\u1eafc th\u00e1i ch\u00ednh c\u1ee7a phong c\u00e1ch v\u1ecb lai. Tuy nhi\u00ean, latex (cao su), poly (s\u1ee3i t\u1ed5ng h\u1ee3p) hay neoprene (cao su t\u1ed5ng h\u1ee3p) \u0111\u00e3 n\u1edbi r\u1ed9ng ranh gi\u1edbi bi\u1ec3u \u0111\u1ea1t c\u1ee7a th\u1eddi trang v\u1ecb lai.<\/p>\n

\"Ng\u01b0\u1eddi<\/p>\n

Pop art ph\u1ea3n chi\u1ebfu x\u00e3 h\u1ed9i<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u201cPop art\u201d (ngh\u1ec7 thu\u1eadt \u0111\u1ea1i ch\u00fang) l\u00e0 phong tr\u00e0o n\u1ed5i l\u00ean v\u00e0o nh\u1eefng n\u0103m 1950 v\u00e0 ph\u00e1t tri\u1ec3n m\u1ea1nh m\u1ebd v\u00e0o nh\u1eefng n\u0103m 1960 \u1edf M\u1ef9 v\u00e0 Anh. G\u1ea1t \u0111i gi\u00e1 tr\u1ecb h\u00e0n l\u00e2m, h\u1ecd chuy\u1ec3n sang c\u00e1c ngu\u1ed3n c\u1ea3m h\u1ee9ng kh\u00e1c nh\u01b0 phim Hollywood, qu\u1ea3ng c\u00e1o, bao b\u00ec, nh\u1ea1c pop v\u00e0 truy\u1ec7n tranh \u0111\u1ec3 s\u00e1ng t\u1ea1o ra t\u00e1c ph\u1ea9m ngh\u1ec7 thu\u1eadt.<\/p>\n

Trong th\u1eddi trang, pop art l\u00e0 nh\u1eefng g\u00ec ph\u1ed5 bi\u1ebfn, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf cho \u0111\u1ea1i ch\u00fang, tr\u1ebb trung v\u00e0 h\u00f3m h\u1ec9nh. Yves Saint Laurent l\u00e0 nh\u00e0 thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf \u0111\u1ea7u ti\u00ean mang h\u00ecnh th\u1ee9c n\u00e0y v\u00e0o b\u1ed9 s\u01b0u t\u1eadp Thu-\u0110\u00f4ng 1966 khi cho ra m\u1eaft chi\u1ebfc v\u00e1y Mondrian bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng. Andy Warhol l\u00e0 h\u1ecda s\u0129 \u0111\u1ea7u ti\u00ean \u1ea3nh h\u01b0\u1edfng trong gi\u1edbi th\u1eddi trang khi truy\u1ec1n t\u1ea3i t\u00e1c ph\u1ea9m Campbell\u2019s soup cans (h\u1ed9p s\u00fap Campbell) th\u00e0nh chi\u1ebfc v\u00e1y Souper dress (v\u00e1y s\u00fap). M\u1ed1i quan h\u1ec7 th\u01b0\u01a1ng m\u1ea1i gi\u1eefa ngh\u1ec7 thu\u1eadt v\u00e0 th\u1eddi trang b\u1eaft ngu\u1ed3n t\u1eeb vi\u1ec7c t\u00f4n vinh h\u00e0ng h\u00f3a ti\u00eau d\u00f9ng b\u1eb1ng \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng n\u00e9t hoa v\u0103n s\u1ed1ng \u0111\u1ed9ng v\u00e0 kh\u1ea3 n\u0103ng truy\u1ec1n \u0111\u1ea1t ng\u00f4n ng\u1eef ph\u1ed5 qu\u00e1t. Tr\u00ean s\u00e0n di\u1ec5n nh\u1eefng n\u0103m g\u1ea7n \u0111\u00e2y, minh ch\u1ee9ng ti\u00eau bi\u1ec3u \u0111\u1ec3 n\u00f3i r\u1eb1ng pop art v\u1eabn ph\u1ed5 bi\u1ebfn ph\u1ea3i k\u1ec3 \u0111\u1ebfn Jeremy Scott, ng\u01b0\u1eddi th\u1ec3 hi\u1ec7n t\u00ecnh y\u00eau c\u1ee7a m\u00ecnh v\u1edbi ngh\u1ec7 thu\u1eadt \u0111\u1ea1i ch\u00fang t\u1ea1i c\u00e1c b\u1ed9 s\u01b0u t\u1eadp theo m\u00f9a c\u1ee7a Moschino.\"\"<\/p>\n

Xem th\u00eam b\u00e0i vi\u1ebft c\u00f9ng chuy\u00ean m\u1ee5c:
\n<\/strong><\/p>\n