{"id":151304,"date":"2024-01-11T00:00:57","date_gmt":"2024-01-10T17:00:57","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/s6.letweb.net\/heritage-fashion\/nhung-chiec-dam-trang-le\/"},"modified":"2024-01-11T00:00:57","modified_gmt":"2024-01-10T17:00:57","slug":"nhung-chiec-dam-trang-le","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/s6.letweb.net\/heritage-fashion\/nhung-chiec-dam-trang-le\/","title":{"rendered":"Nh\u1eefng chi\u1ebfc \u0111\u1ea7m tr\u00e1ng l\u1ec7"},"content":{"rendered":"

B\u00e0i RED H\u00c0 PH\u01af\u01a0NG
\u1ea2nh INTERNET<\/strong><\/p>\n

Ti\u1ec7c t\u00f9ng s\u1ebd k\u00e9m vui n\u1ebfu thi\u1ebfu nh\u1eefng thi\u1ebfu n\u1eef x\u00fang x\u00ednh \u0111\u1ea7m \u0111\u1eb9p. \u201cNh\u00e2n \u2013 Ph\u1ee5c h\u1ee3p nh\u1ea5t\u201d l\u00e0 khi ng\u01b0\u1eddi ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef ch\u1ecdn \u0111\u00fang chi\u1ebfc \u0111\u1ea7m v\u1eeba v\u1eb7n v\u1edbi m\u00ecnh v\u00e0o m\u1ed9t d\u1ecbp ho\u00e0n h\u1ea3o.<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n

\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"Ph\u00e1c
B\u01b0\u0301c cha\u0302n dung cu\u0309a Virginia Oldoini trong chi\u00ea\u0301c \u0111\u00e2\u0300m tra\u0301ng l\u1eb9\u0302<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\u0110\u00eam d\u00e0i c\u00f2n nhi\u1ec1u m\u1ed9ng \u0111\u1eb9p<\/strong><\/p>\n

V\u00e0o cu\u1ed1i th\u1ebf k\u1ef7 18, c\u00e1ch m\u1ea1ng Ph\u00e1p d\u1eb9p b\u1ecf n\u1ec1n phong ki\u1ebfn, \u0111\u1ed3ng th\u1eddi gi\u1ea3i t\u00e1n nh\u1eefng b\u1eefa ti\u1ec7c v\u00e0 l\u1ed1i \u0103n m\u1eb7c xa hoa c\u1ee7a v\u1ecb Ho\u00e0ng h\u1eadu tai ti\u1ebfng Marie Antoinette. Trong v\u00f2ng 50 n\u0103m sau \u0111\u00f3, trang ph\u1ee5c n\u1eef \u1edf Ph\u00e1p tr\u1edf n\u00ean gi\u1ea3n d\u1ecb \u0111\u1ec3 ph\u00f9 h\u1ee3p h\u01a1n v\u1edbi t\u1ea7ng l\u1edbp trung l\u01b0u. Khi Ho\u00e0ng h\u1eadu Antoinette kh\u00f4ng c\u00f2n, m\u1ed9t bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng th\u1eddi trang m\u1edbi n\u1ed5i l\u00ean v\u00e0o l\u00fac \u1ea5y l\u00e0 Ho\u00e0ng h\u1eadu Eug\u00e9nie de Montijo c\u1ee7a vua Napol\u00e9on \u0110\u1ec7 tam. B\u00e0 nh\u00ecn tr\u00fang m\u1ed9t nh\u00e0 m\u1ed1t m\u1edbi n\u1ed5i \u1edf Paris t\u00ean l\u00e0 Charles Frederick Worth. T\u1eeb m\u1ed9t nh\u00e2n vi\u00ean b\u00e1n v\u1ea3i ng\u01b0\u1eddi Anh, s\u1ef1 tham v\u1ecdng c\u1ee7a Worth gi\u00fap \u00f4ng th\u0103ng ti\u1ebfn v\u00e0 c\u00f3 c\u01a1 h\u1ed9i m\u1edf nh\u00e0 may ri\u00eang cho m\u00ecnh.<\/p>\n

\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"\"
B\u01b0\u0301c cha\u0302n dung cu\u0309a Hoa\u0300ng h\u1ea1\u0302u Euge\u0301nie de Montijo trong \u0111\u00e2\u0300m da\u0323 h\u1ecd\u0302i c\u00e2\u0300u ki\u0300 cu\u0309a Worth<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Trong ng\u00f4i nh\u00e0 \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t mang t\u00ean House of Worth, \u00f4ng may cho Ho\u00e0ng h\u1eadu Eug\u00e9nie h\u00e0ng tr\u0103m chi\u1ebfc \u0111\u1ea7m tr\u00e1ng l\u1ec7 cho nh\u1eefng b\u1eefa ti\u1ec7c v\u00e0 chuy\u1ebfn c\u00f4ng du c\u1ee7a b\u00e0. Worth \u0111\u01b0a ngh\u1ec1 may \u0111o cao c\u1ea5p (haute couture) l\u00ean t\u1ea7m cao m\u1edbi. C\u0169ng nh\u01b0 Ho\u00e0ng h\u1eadu Antoinette, nh\u1eefng g\u00ec Ho\u00e0ng h\u1eadu Eug\u00e9nie kho\u00e1c l\u00ean m\u00ecnh \u0111\u1ec1u tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh m\u1ed1t trong d\u00e2n ch\u00fang. Worth ch\u1edbp l\u1ea5y th\u1eddi c\u01a1 v\u00e0 thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf s\u1eb5n, m\u1eb7c l\u00ean ng\u01b0\u1eddi m\u1eabu \u0111\u1ec3 cho c\u00e1c kh\u00e1ch h\u00e0ng c\u1ee7a m\u00ecnh \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c d\u1ec5 d\u00e0ng chi\u00eam ng\u01b0\u1ee1ng v\u00e0 ch\u1ecdn l\u1ef1a. L\u00fac n\u00e0y, haute couture kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u01a1n gi\u1ea3n l\u00e0 thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf ri\u00eang theo s\u1ed1 \u0111o cho t\u1eebng kh\u00e1ch h\u00e0ng, m\u00e0 l\u00e0 s\u1ef1 k\u1ebft h\u1ee3p ho\u00e0n h\u1ea3o gi\u1eefa ch\u1ea5t li\u1ec7u cao c\u1ea5p, k\u1ef9 thu\u1eadt th\u01b0\u1ee3ng h\u1ea1ng v\u00e0 tr\u00ean h\u1ebft l\u00e0 t\u1ea7m nh\u00ecn v\u0129 \u0111\u1ea1i. N\u1ed1i g\u00f3t Charles Frederick Worth, c\u00e1c nh\u00e0 m\u1ed1t c\u1ee7a ng\u00e0nh may \u0111o cao c\u1ea5p mi\u1ec7t m\u00e0i \u201cti\u1ebfp l\u1eeda\u201d cho b\u1eefa ti\u1ec7c kh\u00f4ng bao gi\u1edd t\u00e0n.<\/p>\n

Nh\u1eefng v\u00ec sao kh\u00f4ng bao gi\u1edd t\u1eaft<\/strong><\/p>\n

Trong kh\u00f4ng gian nh\u1ed9n nh\u1ecbp c\u1ee7a ngh\u1ec7 thu\u1eadt Ph\u00e1p th\u1ebf k\u1ef7 19, ngu\u1ed3n c\u1ea3m h\u1ee9ng t\u1eeb x\u1ee9 Ph\u00f9 Tang th\u1ed5i l\u00e0n gi\u00f3 m\u00e1t v\u00e0o c\u00e1c l\u0129nh v\u1ef1c ngh\u1ec7 thu\u1eadt, trong \u0111\u00f3 c\u00f3 th\u1eddi trang. Khi \u0111\u00f3, nh\u00e0 thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf Paul Poiret th\u1ec3 hi\u1ec7n s\u1ef1 b\u1ea5t \u0111\u1ed3ng quan \u0111i\u1ec3m v\u1edbi Worth, b\u1edfi nh\u1eefng chi\u1ebfc \u0111\u1ea7m c\u1ee7a Worth c\u00f3 c\u1ea5u tr\u00fac \u0111\u1ed3 s\u1ed9 v\u1edbi t\u00f9ng v\u00e1y to, sau \u0111\u00f3 ch\u1ed3ng l\u00ean l\u00e0 t\u1eebng l\u1edbp l\u1ee5a, voan, \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t ph\u1ea7n eo b\u00f3 ch\u1eb7t b\u1eb1ng chi\u1ebfc corset. Poiret c\u1ea3m th\u1ea5y corset b\u00f3 bu\u1ed9c c\u01a1 th\u1ec3 ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef c\u0169ng nh\u01b0 ti\u1ec1m n\u0103ng c\u1ee7a nh\u1eefng \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng c\u1eaft m\u1edbi tr\u00ean chi\u1ebfc \u0111\u1ea7m c\u0169. \u00d4ng y\u00eau th\u00edch s\u1ef1 tho\u1ea3i m\u00e1i v\u00e0 r\u1ed9ng r\u00e3i c\u1ee7a chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o Kimono, l\u1edbn h\u01a1n c\u1ea3 l\u00e0 c\u1ea3m h\u1ee9ng ph\u01b0\u01a1ng \u0110\u00f4ng n\u01a1i c\u00f3 nh\u1eefng h\u1ecda ti\u1ebft b\u1ea3n \u0111\u1ecba k\u1ef3 th\u00fa \u0111an xen v\u1edbi \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng n\u00e9t gi\u1ea3n d\u1ecb. Paul Poiret khao kh\u00e1t k\u1ebft h\u1ee3p ngh\u1ec7 thu\u1eadt v\u00e0o th\u1eddi trang c\u1ee7a m\u00ecnh. \u0110\u1ea7m v\u00e0 \u00e1o cho\u00e0ng c\u1ee7a Poiret c\u00f3 khi gi\u1ed1ng nh\u01b0 m\u1ed9t b\u1ee9c tranh c\u1ee7a danh h\u1ecda Matisse \u0111\u01b0\u01a1ng th\u1eddi: m\u1ed9t c\u1ea5u tr\u00fac \u0111i theo c\u01a1 th\u1ec3 t\u1ef1 nhi\u00ean nh\u01b0 t\u1ea5m canvas \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c t\u00f4 n\u1ec1n \u0111\u1ec3 nh\u1eefng \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng n\u00e9t t\u1ea3 c\u1ecf c\u00e2y \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c bay tr\u00ean n\u00f3. Paul Poiret l\u00e0 ng\u01b0\u1eddi \u0111\u1ecbnh ngh\u0129a kh\u00e1i ni\u1ec7m \u201cnh\u00e0 thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf th\u1eddi trang\u201d theo c\u00e1ch m\u00e0 ch\u00fang ta hi\u1ec3u ng\u00e0y nay: kh\u00f4ng nh\u1ea5t thi\u1ebft ph\u1ea3i bi\u1ebft may v\u00e1, nh\u01b0ng l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t ng\u01b0\u1eddi c\u00f3 t\u1ea7m nh\u00ecn v\u00e0 th\u1ea5m \u0111\u1eabm d\u00f2ng ch\u1ea3y c\u1ee7a ngh\u1ec7 thu\u1eadt x\u00e3 h\u1ed9i.<\/p>\n

\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"Chi\u1ebfc
Worth co\u0301 c\u00e2\u0301u tru\u0301c \u0111\u00f4\u0300 s\u1ecd\u0302 v\u01a1\u0301i tu\u0300ng va\u0301y to va\u0300 ph\u00e2\u0300n eo bo\u0301 ch\u1ea1\u0306t b\u0103\u0300ng chi\u00ea\u0301c corset<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\u0110\u1ebfn v\u1edbi th\u1ebf k\u1ef7 20, nhi\u1ec1u nh\u00e0 thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf th\u1eddi trang ch\u00e2u \u00c2u n\u1ed5i l\u00ean v\u1edbi c\u00e1 t\u00ednh ri\u00eang bi\u1ec7t c\u1ee7a m\u00ecnh. N\u01b0\u1edbc \u00dd c\u00f3 n\u00e0ng qu\u00e1i ki\u1ec7t Elsa Schiaparelli v\u1edbi chi\u1ebfc \u0111\u1ea7m mang c\u1ea3m h\u1ee9ng ngh\u1ec7 thu\u1eadt Si\u00eau th\u1ef1c: pha tr\u1ed9n gi\u1eefa t\u00ednh \u1ee9ng d\u1ee5ng cao v\u00e0 v\u1ebb h\u00e0i h\u01b0\u1edbc, ch\u01a1i \u0111\u00f9a gi\u1eefa l\u1eb1n ranh th\u1ef1c t\u1ea1i v\u00e0 \u1ea3o \u1ea3nh. C\u0169ng t\u1ea1i th\u1eddi \u0111i\u1ec3m \u0111\u00f3, nh\u1eefng t\u00f2a nh\u00e0 vu\u00f4ng v\u1ee9c v\u00e0 ti\u1ebft ch\u1ebf h\u1ecda ti\u1ebft \u0111\u1ebfn c\u1ef1c \u0111oan m\u1ecdc l\u00ean.<\/p>\n

Trong gi\u1edbi haute couture c\u0169ng c\u00f3 m\u1ed9t \u201cki\u1ebfn tr\u00fac s\u01b0\u201d th\u1eddi trang \u2013 nh\u00e0 m\u1ed1t ng\u01b0\u1eddi T\u00e2y Ban Nha Crist\u00f3bal Balenciaga. Tho\u1ea1t nh\u00ecn, nh\u1eefng thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf c\u1ee7a Balenciaga c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 kh\u00f4ng qu\u00e1 b\u1eaft m\u1eaft, nh\u01b0ng \u1ea9n s\u00e2u l\u00e0 k\u1ef9 thu\u1eadt c\u1eaft may chu\u1ea9n m\u1ef1c b\u1eadc nh\u1ea5t. Kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u01a1n thu\u1ea7n t\u1ea1o ra m\u1ed9t b\u00f4ng hoa h\u1ed3ng nh\u1ecf b\u00e9 \u0111\u1ec3 \u0111\u00ednh l\u00ean chi\u1ebfc \u0111\u1ea7m, Balenciaga t\u1ea1o ra c\u1ea3 chi\u1ebfc \u0111\u1ea7m mang d\u00e1ng h\u00ecnh m\u1ed9t b\u00f4ng hoa h\u1ed3ng l\u1edbn \u00f4m \u1ea5p l\u1ea5y chi\u1ebfc c\u1ed5 nh\u1ecf c\u1ee7a ng\u01b0\u1eddi ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef.<\/p>\n

Trong khi Balenciaga c\u1eaft may d\u1ecdc theo \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng eo t\u1ef1 nhi\u00ean, DIOR l\u1ea1i si\u1ebft n\u00f3 l\u1ea1i m\u1ed9t l\u1ea7n n\u1eefa. Christian Dior b\u1eaft \u0111\u1ea7u s\u1ef1 nghi\u1ec7p \u1edf tu\u1ed5i 47, \u00f4ng s\u00e1ng ch\u1ebf ra d\u00e1ng \u0111\u1ea7m \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c g\u1ecdi t\u00ean New Look t\u00f4n l\u00ean d\u00e1ng h\u00ecnh n\u1eef t\u00ednh c\u1ed5 \u0111i\u1ec3n nh\u1ea5n ph\u1ea7n eo v\u00e0 x\u00f2e b\u00ean d\u01b0\u1edbi, ph\u1ea7n vai \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u1ed9n d\u00e0y, t\u1ea1o n\u00ean c\u1ea5u tr\u00fac th\u1eb3ng v\u00e0 d\u1ee9t kho\u00e1t cho t\u1ed5ng th\u1ec3 b\u1ed9 trang ph\u1ee5c. M\u1ed9t chi\u1ebfc \u0111\u1ea7m d\u1ea1 h\u1ed9i ki\u1ec3u DIOR nh\u1ea5t l\u00e0 chi\u1ebfc \u0111\u1ea7m vai tr\u1ea7n chi\u1ebft eo, c\u00f3 ph\u1ea7n v\u00e1y x\u00f2e ch\u1eef A, d\u00f9 l\u00e0 voan hay l\u1ee5a, nh\u01b0ng lu\u00f4n lu\u00f4n n\u1edf \u0111\u1ea7y hoa tr\u00ean \u0111\u00f3.<\/p>\n

Trong th\u1eddi \u0111i\u1ec3m Schiaparelli, Balenciaga, DIOR n\u1ed5i l\u00ean, c\u00f3 m\u1ed9t nh\u00e0 m\u1ed1t thi\u00ean t\u00e0i b\u1ecb l\u00e3ng qu\u00ean, \u0111\u00f3 l\u00e0 Charles James. Chi\u1ebfc \u0111\u1ea7m Clover Leaf c\u1ee7a James c\u00f3 c\u1ea5u t\u1ea1o ch\u1eb7t ch\u1ebd nh\u01b0 m\u1ed9t s\u00e1ng ch\u1ebf khoa h\u1ecdc: b\u1ed9 khung corset v\u00e0 t\u00f9ng v\u00e1y h\u1ea1 eo, kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u1ed9n l\u00ean nh\u01b0 chi\u1ebfc l\u1ed3ng chim, m\u00e0 ch\u1ea1y thoai tho\u1ea3i xu\u1ed1ng nh\u01b0 \u0111\u1ed3i n\u00fai, t\u1ecfa ra b\u1ed1n ph\u00eda t\u1ea1o th\u00e0nh \u0111\u00f3a hoa b\u1ed1n c\u00e1nh. T\u1ef1 nh\u1eadn m\u00ecnh l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t nh\u00e0 \u0111i\u00eau kh\u1eafc, ki\u1ebfn tr\u00fac s\u01b0, Charles James t\u1ec9 m\u1ec9 t\u1ea1o ra nh\u1eefng d\u00e1ng \u0111\u1ea7m \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c t\u00ednh to\u00e1n \u0111\u1ebfn m\u1ee9c khi nh\u00ecn \u1edf m\u1ecdi g\u00f3c \u0111\u1ed9, c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 th\u1ea5y \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c t\u1ed5ng th\u1ec3 tr\u00f4ng nh\u01b0 m\u1ed9t b\u1ee9c t\u01b0\u1ee3ng ngh\u1ec7 thu\u1eadt. Di s\u1ea3n c\u1ee7a \u00f4ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c B\u1ea3o t\u00e0ng Ngh\u1ec7 thu\u1eadt Metropolitan New York vinh danh v\u00e0o n\u0103m 2015, khi h\u1ecd l\u1ea5y \u00f4ng l\u00e0m ch\u1ee7 \u0111\u1ec1 cho b\u1eefa ti\u1ec7c Met Gala.<\/p>\n

\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"Ng\u01b0\u1eddi
Chi\u00ea\u0301c \u0111\u00e2\u0300m New Look kinh \u0111i\u00ea\u0309n cu\u0309a DIOR<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Th\u1eddi gian g\u1ea7n \u0111\u00e2y, c\u00e1c ng\u00f4i sao Hollywood \u0111\u1ec1u \u01b0a th\u00edch vi\u1ec7c t\u00ecm v\u1ec1 v\u1edbi kho l\u01b0u tr\u1eef c\u1ee7a c\u00e1c nh\u00e0 m\u1ed1t \u0111\u1ec3 t\u00ecm ki\u1ebfm ch\u00fat \u201cb\u1ee5i sao\u201d c\u00f2n s\u00f3t l\u1ea1i. G\u1ea7n \u0111\u00e2y nh\u1ea5t c\u00f3 Natalie Portman di\u1ec7n chi\u1ebfc \u0111\u1ea7m Thi\u00ean nga c\u1ee7a Christian Dior tr\u00ean th\u1ea3m \u0111\u1ecf Cannes, v\u00e0 tr\u01b0\u1edbc \u0111\u00f3 Cardi B c\u0169ng m\u1eb7c \u0111\u1ea7m Thierry Mugler, hay Sarah Jessica Parker v\u1edbi thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf c\u1ee7a Charles James. Nh\u1eefng chi\u1ebfc \u0111\u1ea7m n\u00e0y \u0111\u1ec1u c\u00f3 gi\u00e1 tr\u1ecb l\u1ecbch s\u1eed v\u0103n h\u00f3a, ngh\u1ec7 thu\u1eadt quan tr\u1ecdng. Nh\u1eefng ng\u00f4i sao ng\u00e0y nay kho\u00e1c l\u00ean m\u00ecnh di s\u1ea3n, d\u01b0\u1eddng nh\u01b0 c\u00f3 c\u1ea3m gi\u00e1c h\u1ecd \u0111ang \u0111\u00f3ng vai nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi m\u1eabu ng\u00e0y x\u01b0a c\u1ee7a Charles Frederick Worth, tr\u00ecnh di\u1ec7n nh\u1eefng thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf n\u00e0y l\u1ea7n \u0111\u1ea7u ti\u00ean. Kh\u00f4ng c\u00f2n l\u00e0 cho nh\u1eefng kh\u00e1ch h\u00e0ng nh\u00ecn ng\u1eafm, m\u00e0 l\u00e0 nh\u1eefng kh\u00e1n gi\u1ea3 t\u00f2 m\u00f2 v\u1ec1 b\u1eefa ti\u1ec7c c\u1ee7a nh\u1eefng th\u00e1ng ng\u00e0y t\u01b0\u01a1i \u0111\u1eb9p \u0111\u00e3 qua.\"\"<\/p>\n

Xem th\u00eam b\u00e0i vi\u1ebft c\u00f9ng chuy\u00ean m\u1ee5c:<\/strong><\/p>\n