{"id":151333,"date":"2024-02-20T03:00:51","date_gmt":"2024-02-19T20:00:51","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/s6.letweb.net\/heritage-fashion\/tai-khoi-dau-gia-tri-moi\/"},"modified":"2024-02-20T03:00:51","modified_gmt":"2024-02-19T20:00:51","slug":"tai-khoi-dau-gia-tri-moi","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/s6.letweb.net\/heritage-fashion\/tai-khoi-dau-gia-tri-moi\/","title":{"rendered":"T\u00e1i kh\u1edfi \u0111\u1ea7u gi\u00e1 tr\u1ecb m\u1edbi"},"content":{"rendered":"

B\u00e0i MINH NH\u1eacT
\n<\/strong>\u1ea2nh TH\u01af\u01a0NG HI\u1ec6U CUNG C\u1ea4P<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u0110\u1ed1i v\u1edbi th\u1eddi trang c\u1ee7a th\u1eadp ni\u00ean n\u00e0y, s\u00e1ng t\u1ea1o m\u1ed9t gi\u00e1 tr\u1ecb m\u1edbi \u0111\u1ed3ng ngh\u0129a v\u1edbi vi\u1ec7c cho ph\u00e9p c\u00e1c t\u00e0i n\u0103ng m\u1edbi khai th\u00e1c s\u1ef1 d\u1ed3i d\u00e0o c\u1ee7a di s\u1ea3n.<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n

\"Ng\u01b0\u1eddi
BST Jean Paul Gaultier Haute
\nCouture Thu \u0110o\u0302ng
\n2023 \u0111u\u031b\u01a1\u0323c th\u01b0\u0323c hi\u1eb9\u0302n
\nb\u01a1\u0309i Julien Dossena<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Gi\u00e1 tr\u1ecb m\u1edbi t\u1eeb c\u1ed9i ngu\u1ed3n<\/strong><\/p>\n

Nh\u00ecn v\u1ec1 giai \u0111o\u1ea1n nh\u1eefng n\u0103m 2010, xu h\u01b0\u1edbng c\u1ea1nh tranh c\u1ee7a c\u00e1c nh\u00e0 m\u1ed1t xa x\u1ec9 l\u00e0 h\u1ee3p t\u00e1c v\u1edbi nhi\u1ec1u g\u01b0\u01a1ng m\u1eb7t gi\u00e1m \u0111\u1ed1c s\u00e1ng t\u1ea1o (G\u0110ST) v\u00e0 nh\u00e0 thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf (NTK) n\u1ed5i b\u1eadt. T\u00ean tu\u1ed5i l\u1edbn c\u1ee7a h\u1ecd t\u1ec9 l\u1ec7 thu\u1eadn v\u1edbi kh\u1ea3 n\u0103ng s\u00e1ng t\u1ea1o c\u1ea5p ti\u1ebfn v\u00e0 s\u1ef1 h\u00e2m m\u1ed9 \u0111\u1ebfn t\u1eeb c\u00f4ng ch\u00fang. V\u00ed d\u1ee5 ti\u00eau bi\u1ec3u l\u00e0 s\u1ee9c n\u00f3ng c\u1ee7a c\u00e1i t\u00ean Hedi Slimane trong kho\u1ea3ng th\u1eddi gian 2000 t\u1edbi 2019. Slimane \u0111\u1ea1i di\u1ec7n cho nh\u1eefng NTK d\u00e1m mang c\u00e1i t\u00f4i \u0111i kh\u1eafp m\u1ecdi n\u01a1i. \u201cHedi boy\u201d (c\u1eadu b\u00e9 c\u1ee7a Hedi) tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh c\u1ee5m t\u1eeb quen thu\u1ed9c, song song v\u1edbi phong c\u00e1ch \u0111\u1eb7c tr\u01b0ng m\u00e0 NTK x\u00e2y d\u1ef1ng cho b\u1ed9 nh\u1eadn di\u1ec7n c\u00e1 nh\u00e2n. V\u1edbi c\u00e1i t\u00f4i kh\u1ed5ng l\u1ed3, Hedi Slimane l\u1ea5n \u00e1t di s\u1ea3n c\u1ee7a c\u00e1c nh\u00e0 m\u1ed1t m\u00e0 ch\u00ednh \u00f4ng \u0111ang \u0111\u1ea3m nhi\u1ec7m vai tr\u00f2 quan tr\u1ecdng.<\/p>\n

M\u1ee5c \u0111\u00edch c\u1ee7a LVMH khi hai l\u1ea7n t\u00ecm \u0111\u1ebfn Hedi ch\u00ednh l\u00e0 mong mu\u1ed1n l\u00e0m m\u1edbi c\u00e1c th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u th\u1eddi trang tr\u0103m tu\u1ed5i, \u0103n kh\u1edbp v\u1edbi xu h\u01b0\u1edbng kh\u00e1ch h\u00e0ng \u0111ang tr\u1ebb h\u00f3a m\u1ed7i ng\u00e0y. Tuy nhi\u00ean, k\u1ebft qu\u1ea3 c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 kh\u00f4ng nh\u01b0 \u00fd khi th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u v\u00f4 t\u00ecnh tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh ph\u00f4ng n\u1ec1n cho tr\u00f2 ch\u01a1i c\u1ee7a \u201cg\u00e3 \u0111\u1ed9c t\u00e0i\u201d s\u1edf h\u1eefu b\u1ed9 \u00f3c s\u00e1ng t\u1ea1o nh\u1ea1y b\u00e9n. Gi\u1edbi th\u1eddi trang th\u1ea5y Hedi Slimane \u1edf kh\u1eafp m\u1ecdi n\u01a1i, nh\u01b0ng th\u1eddi trang kh\u00f4ng th\u1ec3 t\u1ed3n t\u1ea1i l\u00e2u d\u00e0i khi qu\u00ean c\u1ed1t l\u00f5i v\u00e0 tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh c\u00f4ng c\u1ee5 ph\u1ee5 thu\u1ed9c v\u00e0o m\u1ed9t c\u00e1 nh\u00e2n duy nh\u1ea5t. M\u1ed1i quan h\u1ec7 gi\u1eefa th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u di s\u1ea3n d\u00e0y d\u1eb7n v\u00e0 c\u00e1c G\u0110ST c\u00f3 v\u1ebb s\u1ebd tr\u1edf n\u00ean kh\u0103ng kh\u00edt h\u01a1n n\u1ebfu th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u c\u00f3 quan \u0111i\u1ec3m v\u1eefng v\u00e0ng trong vi\u1ec7c b\u1ea3o t\u1ed3n l\u1ecbch s\u1eed c\u1ee7a ch\u00ednh m\u00ecnh. Nh\u01b0 v\u1eady, chi\u1ebfn l\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u1ec3 th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u xoay quanh G\u0110ST c\u1ee7a th\u1eddi k\u00ec 2010 s\u1ee5p \u0111\u1ed5 ngay trong nh\u1eefng n\u0103m \u0111\u1ea7u c\u1ee7a th\u1eadp ni\u00ean 2020.<\/p>\n

Hi\u1ec7n t\u1ea1i, G\u0110ST kh\u00f4ng nh\u1ea5t thi\u1ebft ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t c\u00e1i t\u00ean n\u1ed5i ti\u1ebfng v\u1edbi s\u1ed1 \u0111\u00f4ng, m\u00e0 n\u00ean l\u00e0 nh\u1eefng c\u00e1 nh\u00e2n v\u1edbi t\u00ecnh y\u00eau \u201cng\u00e2y th\u01a1\u201d d\u00e0nh cho th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u, c\u0169ng nh\u01b0 tinh th\u1ea7n \u01b0u ti\u00ean \u0111\u1eb7t di s\u1ea3n l\u00ean h\u00e0ng \u0111\u1ea7u. Gucci ch\u1ecdn Sabato De Sarno, ng\u01b0\u1eddi \u0111\u00e3 l\u00e0m vi\u1ec7c l\u00e2u n\u0103m d\u01b0\u1edbi tr\u01b0\u1edbng Pier Paolo Piccioli t\u1ea1i Valentino. ALA\u00cfA ch\u1ecdn Pieter Mulier, c\u1ed9ng s\u1ef1 \u0111\u1eafc l\u1ef1c c\u1ee7a Raf Simons. Bottega Veneta ch\u1ecdn Matthieu Blazy, NTK v\u1edbi kinh nghi\u1ec7m t\u1ea1i Balenciaga, Maison Margiela v\u00e0 Calvin Klein. Ngay c\u1ea3 trong tr\u01b0\u1eddng h\u1ee3p c\u1ee7a Burberry v\u00e0 Daniel Lee, t\u1eeb b\u1ed9 s\u01b0u t\u1eadp (BST) \u0111\u1ea7u ti\u00ean cho t\u1edbi hi\u1ec7n t\u1ea1i, b\u1ed9 nh\u1eadn di\u1ec7n th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u c\u1ed5 \u0111i\u1ec3n \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng li\u00ean t\u1ee5c, hoa h\u1ed3ng n\u01b0\u1edbc Anh, m\u0169 \u0111i s\u0103n, h\u1ecda ti\u1ebft k\u1ebb s\u1ecdc v\u00e0 c\u1ea3 EKD \u2013 logo hi\u1ec7p s\u0129 c\u01b0\u1ee1i ng\u1ef1a quen thu\u1ed9c t\u1eeb n\u0103m 1901. Burberry m\u1edbi c\u00f3 r\u1ea5t \u00edt th\u00f4ng tin v\u1ec1 Daniel Lee v\u00e0 h\u00e0ng ng\u00e0n th\u00f4ng tin v\u1ec1 ch\u00ednh Burberry. \u0110\u1ed1i v\u1edbi Balenciaga, th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u ch\u1ecdn ph\u00e1t tri\u1ec3n di s\u1ea3n b\u1eb1ng c\u00e1ch mang d\u00f2ng \u0111\u1ed3 Haute Couture ki\u00eau h\u00e3nh tr\u1edf l\u1ea1i k\u1ec3 t\u1eeb m\u00f9a Thu-\u0110\u00f4ng 2021. Vi\u1ec7c Balenciaga k\u1ef3 qu\u00e1i hi\u1ec7n t\u1ea1i kh\u00f4ng khi\u1ebfn ng\u01b0\u1eddi \u0111\u1ee9ng \u0111\u1ea7u th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u qu\u00ean \u0111i s\u1ef1 th\u1eadt r\u1eb1ng Crist\u00f3bal Balenciaga l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t trong nh\u1eefng Couturier n\u1ed5i ti\u1ebfng nh\u1ea5t th\u1ebf k\u1ef7 20.<\/p>\n

\"Ng\u01b0\u1eddi
BST Xua\u0302n He\u0300 2022 \u0111a\u0301nh d\u00e2\u0301u nh\u01b0\u0303ng thi\u00ea\u0301t k\u00ea\u0301 \u0111\u00e2\u0300u tie\u0302n cu\u0309a Pieter Mulier cho Alai\u0308a<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Gi\u00e1 tr\u1ecb m\u1edbi c\u00f9ng g\u01b0\u01a1ng m\u1eb7t m\u1edbi<\/strong><\/p>\n

Khi th\u1eddi trang b\u1eaft \u0111\u1ea7u c\u00f3 d\u1ea5u hi\u1ec7u xoay tr\u1ee5c kh\u1ecfi th\u00f3i quen t\u00ecm ki\u1ebfm c\u00e1c si\u00eau sao th\u00ec c\u01a1 h\u1ed9i c\u0169ng tr\u1edf n\u00ean r\u1ed9ng m\u1edf h\u01a1n cho nh\u1eefng t\u00e0i n\u0103ng tr\u1ebb \u0111\u1ea7y tri\u1ec3n v\u1ecdng. Maximilian Davis, ng\u01b0\u1eddi \u0111ang t\u00edch c\u1ef1c c\u1ea3i ti\u1ebfn h\u00ecnh \u1ea3nh c\u1ee7a Ferragamo t\u1eebng b\u1ecb coi l\u00e0 gi\u00e0 c\u1ed7i, th\u1ef1c ch\u1ea5t m\u1edbi t\u1ed1t nghi\u1ec7p h\u1ecdc vi\u1ec7n th\u1eddi trang London v\u00e0o n\u0103m 2017. \u201cT\u00f4i kh\u00f4ng mu\u1ed1n m\u1ecdi ng\u01b0\u1eddi ngh\u0129 Ferragamo l\u00e0 trang ph\u1ee5c c\u1ee7a th\u1ebf h\u1ec7 \u0111i tr\u01b0\u1edbc\u201d, hay \u201cKhi \u0111\u1ebfn v\u1edbi th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u, G\u0110ST c\u1ea7n thay \u0111\u1ed5i to\u00e0n b\u1ed9 quan \u0111i\u1ec3m c\u1ee7a s\u1ed1 \u0111\u00f4ng v\u1ec1 th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u trong qu\u00e1 kh\u1ee9, \u0111\u1ed3ng th\u1eddi ti\u1ebfn h\u00f3a t\u1eeb ch\u00ednh qu\u00e1 kh\u1ee9\u201d \u2013 Davis chia s\u1ebb v\u1edbi Vogue Arabia v\u00e0o th\u00e1ng 9\/2023.<\/p>\n

Trong khi r\u1ea5t nhi\u1ec1u ng\u01b0\u1eddi v\u1eabn ho\u00e0i nghi v\u1ec1 quy\u1ebft \u0111\u1ecbnh ch\u1ecdn m\u1ed9t NTK trong \u0111\u1ed9 tu\u1ed5i 20 l\u00e0m G\u0110ST cho m\u1ed9t th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u v\u1edbi g\u1ea7n 100 n\u0103m l\u1ecbch s\u1eed, Ferragamo \u0111\u00e1p tr\u1ea3 r\u1eb1ng: \u201cL\u1eddi gi\u1ea3i th\u00edch n\u1eb1m ngay trong di s\u1ea3n\u201d. B\u1edfi, ng\u00e0i Salvatore Ferragamo \u0111\u00e3 l\u00ean \u00fd t\u01b0\u1edfng cho \u0111\u00f4i gi\u00e0y \u0111\u1ea7u ti\u00ean v\u00e0o n\u0103m 9 tu\u1ed5i, \u0111\u1ebfn M\u1ef9 n\u0103m 16 tu\u1ed5i d\u00f9 kh\u00f4ng bi\u1ebft ti\u1ebfng Anh, l\u00e0m vi\u1ec7c t\u1ea1i m\u1ed9t x\u01b0\u1edfng \u0111\u00f3ng gi\u00e0y v\u00e0 tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh th\u1ee3 gi\u00e0y y\u00eau th\u00edch c\u1ee7a th\u1ebf h\u1ec7 diva Audrey Hepburn v\u00e0 Marilyn Monroe.<\/p>\n

Julien Dossena l\u00e0 c\u00e1i t\u00ean xa l\u1ea1 \u0111\u1ed1i v\u1edbi s\u1ed1 \u0111\u00f4ng, tuy nhi\u00ean, \u0111\u00e2y l\u00e0 NTK m\u1edbi nh\u1ea5t c\u00f3 c\u01a1 h\u1ed9i tham gia \u0111\u1ed9i ng\u0169 Couturier c\u1ee7a Jean Paul Gaultier (JPG). Kh\u00f4ng gi\u1ed1ng b\u1ea5t k\u1ef3 th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u n\u00e0o kh\u00e1c, JPG cho r\u1eb1ng x\u01b0\u1edfng th\u1eddi trang th\u1ee7 c\u00f4ng cao c\u1ea5p kh\u00f4ng n\u00ean l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t th\u1ebf gi\u1edbi kh\u00e9p k\u00edn, \u00edt nh\u1ea5t l\u00e0 \u0111\u1ed1i v\u1edbi c\u00e1c nh\u00e0 s\u00e1ng t\u1ea1o tr\u1ebb. K\u1ec3 t\u1eeb m\u00f9a Thu-\u0110\u00f4ng 2021, m\u1ed7i BST Haute Couture c\u1ee7a JPG s\u1ebd \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c th\u1ef1c hi\u1ec7n b\u1edfi m\u1ed9t NTK do ch\u00ednh Gaultier l\u1ef1a ch\u1ecdn v\u00e0 g\u1eedi l\u1eddi m\u1eddi. T\u1ea1p ch\u00ed AnOther g\u1ecdi quy\u1ebft \u0111\u1ecbnh c\u1ee7a JPG l\u00e0 \u201cm\u1ed9t trong nh\u1eefng c\u1eed ch\u1ec9 ch\u00e2n th\u00e0nh nh\u1ea5t d\u00e0nh cho c\u1ed9ng \u0111\u1ed3ng th\u1eddi trang hi\u1ec7n nay\u201d, v\u00e0 mang \u0111\u1ebfn quy\u1ec1n t\u1ef1 do kh\u00e1m ph\u00e1 Haute Couture c\u0169ng nh\u01b0 \u0111\u00e0o s\u00e2u kho l\u01b0u tr\u1eef bao g\u1ed3m nh\u1eefng s\u00e1ng t\u1ea1o bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng trong kho\u1ea3ng th\u1eddi gian cu\u1ed1i th\u1ebf k\u1ef7 20, \u0111\u1ea7u th\u1ebf k\u1ef7 21. V\u00e0 nh\u01b0 v\u1eady, trong v\u00f2ng 5 m\u00f9a, JPG tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh \u0111i\u1ec3m nh\u1ea5n cho tu\u1ea7n l\u1ec5 th\u1eddi trang th\u1ee7 c\u00f4ng cao c\u1ea5p, n\u01a1i gi\u00fap Chitose Abe, Glenn Martens, Olivier Rousteing, Haider Ackermann v\u00e0 Julien Dossena \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c th\u1ecfa s\u1ee9c th\u1ec3 hi\u1ec7n t\u1ea7m nh\u00ecn m\u1edbi m\u1ebb c\u1ee7a h\u1ecd v\u1ec1 Haute Couture.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Maximilian Davis quay tr\u01a1\u0309 la\u0323i v\u01a1\u0301i show di\u00ea\u0303n Ferragamo Thu \u0110o\u0302ng 2023<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

T\u01b0\u01a1ng lai \u0111\u00e1ng mong \u0111\u1ee3i<\/strong><\/p>\n

B\u1eadc th\u1ea7y v\u1ec1 s\u1ef1 trung th\u00e0nh v\u1edbi di s\u1ea3n ch\u1eafc h\u1eb3n ch\u00ednh l\u00e0 Karl Lagerfeld, ng\u01b0\u1eddi s\u1ebd l\u00e0m \u0111\u00fang ch\u1ea5t CHANEL t\u1ea1i CHANEL v\u00e0 l\u00e0m ra ch\u1ea5t Fendi t\u1ea1i Fendi. Thay v\u00ec t\u00ecm m\u1ed9t ng\u00f4i sao n\u1ed5i ti\u1ebfng, xu h\u01b0\u1edbng hi\u1ec7n t\u1ea1i l\u00e0 t\u00ecm ra nh\u1eefng \u201cLagerfeld k\u1ebf t\u1ee5c\u201d, nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi s\u1eb5n s\u00e0ng \u0111\u1eb7t c\u00f4ng vi\u1ec7c duy tr\u00ec tinh hoa th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u l\u00ean tr\u00ean h\u1ebft, \u0111\u1ed3ng th\u1eddi v\u1eabn gi\u1edbi thi\u1ec7u h\u01b0\u1edbng \u0111i ph\u00f9 h\u1ee3p v\u1edbi th\u1eddi \u0111\u1ea1i. C\u00f9ng l\u00fac \u0111\u00f3, c\u1ed9ng \u0111\u1ed3ng th\u1eddi trang kh\u00f4ng thi\u1ebfu c\u00e1c t\u00e0i n\u0103ng tr\u1ebb. Thay v\u00ec chuy\u1ec3n \u0111\u1ed5i m\u1ed9t NTK \u0111\u00e3 th\u00e0nh danh t\u1eeb th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u n\u00e0y sang th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u kh\u00e1c, xu th\u1ebf m\u1edbi m\u1edf ra nhi\u1ec1u c\u01a1 h\u1ed9i h\u01a1n cho ng\u01b0\u1eddi m\u1edbi, v\u00e0 c\u1ea3 nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi kh\u00f4ng m\u1edbi, nh\u01b0ng \u0111\u00e3 d\u00e0nh th\u1eddi gian \u0111\u1ee9ng sau c\u00e1nh g\u00e0 \u0111\u1ee7 l\u00e2u \u0111\u1ec3 h\u00ecnh th\u00e0nh t\u1ea7m nh\u00ecn c\u0169ng nh\u01b0 k\u1ebf ho\u1ea1ch duy tr\u00ec c\u1ea3 m\u1ed9t kho di s\u1ea3n.\"\"<\/p>\n

Xem th\u00eam b\u00e0i vi\u1ebft c\u00f9ng chuy\u00ean m\u1ee5c:<\/strong><\/p>\n