{"id":151334,"date":"2024-02-23T00:00:32","date_gmt":"2024-02-22T17:00:32","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/s6.letweb.net\/heritage-fashion\/thuo-dau-ruc-ro\/"},"modified":"2024-02-23T00:00:32","modified_gmt":"2024-02-22T17:00:32","slug":"thuo-dau-ruc-ro","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/s6.letweb.net\/heritage-fashion\/thuo-dau-ruc-ro\/","title":{"rendered":"Thu\u1edf \u0111\u1ea7u r\u1ef1c r\u1ee1"},"content":{"rendered":"

B\u00e0i RED H\u00c0 PH\u01af\u01a0NG
\n<\/strong>\u1ea2nh INTERNET<\/strong><\/p>\n

Trong chi\u1ec1u d\u00e0i l\u1ecbch s\u1eed th\u1eddi trang, c\u00f3 r\u1ea5t nhi\u1ec1u t\u00ean tu\u1ed5i nh\u00e0 thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf t\u1ea1o ra nh\u1eefng cu\u1ed9c c\u00e1ch m\u1ea1ng \u0111\u00e1ng ch\u00fa \u00fd. Chanel, Dior v\u00e0 Saint Laurent l\u00e0 ba trong nh\u1eefng nh\u00e2n v\u1eadt huy\u1ec1n tho\u1ea1i g\u00f3p ph\u1ea7n \u0111\u1ecbnh h\u00ecnh c\u00e1ch \u0103n m\u1eb7c c\u1ee7a ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i.<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n

\"Ng\u01b0\u1eddi
B\u1ecd\u0302 suit va\u0309i tweed tr\u01b0\u0301 danh cu\u0309a Coco Chanel \u0111a\u0303 tr\u01a1\u0309 tha\u0300nh bi\u00ea\u0309u tu\u031b\u01a1\u0323ng cho quy\u00ea\u0300n l\u01b0\u0323c m\u00ea\u0300m<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

B\u01b0\u1edbc \u0111i ti\u00ean phong<\/strong><\/p>\n

Trong bu\u1ed5i b\u00ecnh minh c\u1ee7a th\u1ebf k\u1ef7 20, ng\u01b0\u1eddi ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef c\u1ea3m nh\u1eadn \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u1ef1 chuy\u1ec3n m\u00ecnh c\u1ee7a th\u1ebf gi\u1edbi. H\u1ecd t\u00ecm th\u1ea5y nh\u1eefng tri\u1ebft l\u00fd m\u1edbi trong th\u1eddi trang. \u0110\u00e2y l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t trong nh\u1eefng c\u00e1ch ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef kh\u1eb3ng \u0111\u1ecbnh c\u00e1 t\u00ednh c\u1ee7a m\u00ecnh trong x\u00e3 h\u1ed9i. Sau Th\u1ebf chi\u1ebfn th\u1ee9 nh\u1ea5t, ng\u01b0\u1eddi ta mu\u1ed1n tr\u00fat b\u1ecf nh\u1eefng l\u1edbp v\u00e1y \u0111\u1ea7m n\u1eb7ng n\u1ec1 c\u1ee7a th\u1eddi k\u1ef3 \u0111en t\u1ed1i v\u00e0 c\u0169 k\u1ef9. L\u00fac \u1ea5y, m\u1ed9t ng\u01b0\u1eddi \u0111\u00e0n b\u00e0 m\u1ea3nh kh\u1ea3nh t\u00ean l\u00e0 Gabrielle \u201cCoco\u201d Chanel \u0111\u00e3 xu\u1ea5t hi\u1ec7n v\u00e0 thay \u0111\u1ed5i l\u1ecbch s\u1eed th\u1eddi trang. M\u1eb9 m\u1ea5t s\u1edbm, c\u00f4 g\u00e1i Gabrielle l\u01b0u l\u1ea1c t\u1edbi m\u1ed9t tu vi\u1ec7n, n\u01a1i c\u00e1c n\u1eef tu ch\u1ec9 m\u1eb7c trang ph\u1ee5c hai m\u00e0u \u0111en-tr\u1eafng, v\u00e0 \u0111\u00f3 ch\u00ednh l\u00e0 y\u1ebfu t\u1ed1 kh\u1edfi sinh cho di s\u1ea3n c\u1ee7a nh\u00e0 thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf huy\u1ec1n tho\u1ea1i.<\/p>\n

Nh\u1eadn th\u1ea5y \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u1ef1 qu\u00e1 \u0111\u1ed7i c\u1ea7u k\u1ef3 c\u1ee7a trang ph\u1ee5c ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef th\u1eddi \u0111\u00f3, Chanel quy\u1ebft t\u00e2m \u0111\u01a1n gi\u1ea3n h\u00f3a b\u1ed9 trang ph\u1ee5c, b\u1eaft \u0111\u1ea7u t\u1eeb nh\u1eefng chi\u1ebfc m\u0169 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c gi\u1ea3n l\u01b0\u1ee3c chi ti\u1ebft, thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf r\u1ed9ng v\u00e0nh \u0111\u1ecbnh h\u00ecnh d\u00e1ng \u0111\u1ea7u nh\u1ecf c\u1ee7a ng\u01b0\u1eddi ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef, ch\u1ec9 th\u00eam m\u1ed9t c\u1ecdng l\u00f4ng v\u0169 ho\u1eb7c ruy b\u0103ng l\u00e0m \u0111i\u1ec3m nh\u1ea5n. T\u1eeb th\u00e0nh c\u00f4ng nho nh\u1ecf, d\u1ea7n d\u00e0 c\u00f4 l\u1ea5n s\u00e2n sang vi\u1ec7c may qu\u1ea7n \u00e1o. Nh\u1eefng thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf c\u1ee7a Coco Chanel \u0111i ng\u01b0\u1ee3c l\u1ea1i ho\u00e0n to\u00e0n v\u1edbi xu h\u01b0\u1edbng th\u1eddi trang ph\u1ed5 bi\u1ebfn tr\u01b0\u1edbc \u0111\u00f3. Chanel kh\u01b0\u1edbc t\u1eeb phong c\u00e1ch c\u1ea7u k\u1ef3 mang \u00e2m h\u01b0\u1edfng ngh\u1ec7 thu\u1eadt trang tr\u00ed c\u1ee7a Paul Poiret. Gabrielle Chanel d\u1ea1y cho ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef th\u01b0\u1ee3ng l\u01b0u r\u1eb1ng: \u201c\u0102n m\u1eb7c \u0111\u1eb9p, kh\u00f4ng nh\u1ea5t thi\u1ebft ph\u1ea3i \u0111i\u1ec7u\u201d, \u0111\u00e1nh d\u1ea5u m\u1ed9t th\u1eddi \u0111\u1ea1i tuy\u00ean ngo\u0302n bi\u0300nh \u0111\u0103\u0309ng cho n\u01b0\u0303 gi\u01a1\u0301i tho\u0302ng qua th\u01a1\u0300i trang.<\/p>\n

Trong su\u00f4\u0301t s\u01b0\u0323 nghi\u1eb9\u0302p cu\u0309a mi\u0300nh, Chanel theo \u0111u\u00f4\u0309i tri\u00ea\u0301t ly\u0301 th\u01a1\u0300i trang mang \u0111\u00ea\u0301n cho ngu\u031b\u01a1\u0300i phu\u0323 n\u01b0\u0303 s\u01b0\u0323 thoa\u0309i ma\u0301i va\u0300 thanh li\u0323ch nh\u00e2\u0301t co\u0301 th\u00ea\u0309, k\u00ea\u0309 ca\u0309 b\u1ecd\u0302 suit va\u0309i tweed tr\u01b0\u0301 danh ma\u0300 gi\u01a1\u0300 \u0111a\u0303 tr\u01a1\u0309 tha\u0300nh m\u1ecd\u0302t bi\u00ea\u0309u tu\u031b\u01a1\u0323ng cho quy\u00ea\u0300n l\u01b0\u0323c m\u00ea\u0300m cu\u0309a nh\u01b0\u0303ng ngu\u031b\u01a1\u0300i \u0111a\u0300n ba\u0300 ma\u0323nh me\u0303 nh\u00e2\u0301t.<\/p>\n

\"Ng\u01b0\u1eddi
Ca\u0301c thi\u00ea\u0301t k\u00ea\u0301 cu\u0309a Christian Dior mang \u0111u\u031b\u01a1\u0300ng ne\u0301t thanh li\u0323ch va\u0300 hi\u1eb9\u0302n \u0111a\u0323i<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Nh\u01b0\u0303ng ngu\u031b\u01a1\u0300i \u0111a\u0300n o\u0302ng \u0111\u1ecd\u0302t pha\u0301<\/strong><\/p>\n

D\u00e2\u0301n tha\u0302n va\u0300o th\u01a1\u0300i trang t\u01b0\u0300 na\u0306m 30 tu\u00f4\u0309i, cha\u0300ng trai Christian Dior b\u0103\u0301t \u0111\u00e2\u0300u s\u01b0\u0323 nghi\u1eb9\u0302p b\u0103\u0300ng vi\u1eb9\u0302c ve\u0303 nh\u01b0\u0303ng pha\u0301c ho\u0323a th\u01a1\u0300i trang, va\u0300 sau \u0111o\u0301 \u0111\u00e2\u0300u qua\u0302n cho nha\u0300 m\u00f4\u0301t Lucian LeLong. \u01a0\u0309 LeLong, o\u0302ng ho\u0323c \u0111u\u031b\u01a1\u0323c tinh hoa cu\u0309a c\u0103\u0301t may va\u0300 ch\u00e2\u0301t li\u1eb9\u0302u, cu\u0303ng nhu\u031b ca\u0301ch v\u1ea1\u0302n ha\u0300nh m\u1ecd\u0302t nha\u0300 m\u00f4\u0301t cao c\u00e2\u0301p. Va\u0300o na\u0306m 1947, Christian Dior cho ra m\u0103\u0301t b\u1ecd\u0302 su\u031bu t\u1ea1\u0302p (BST) \u0111\u00e2\u0300u tie\u0302n v\u01a1\u0301i nha\u0303n hi\u1eb9\u0302u cu\u0309a rie\u0302ng mi\u0300nh. BST nh\u1ea1\u0302n \u0111u\u031b\u01a1\u0323c l\u01a1\u0300i ta\u0301n du\u031bo\u031bng t\u01b0\u0300 gi\u01a1\u0301i m\u1ecd\u0302 \u0111i\u1eb9\u0302u. Ho\u0323 cho r\u0103\u0300ng DIOR se\u0303 m\u01a1\u0309 ra m\u1ecd\u0302t cu\u1ecd\u0302c ca\u0301ch ma\u0323ng cho th\u01a1\u0300i trang. Chi\u00ea\u0301c \u0111\u00e2\u0300m The New Look tr\u01b0\u0301 danh cu\u0309a DIOR, kh\u0103\u0309ng \u0111i\u0323nh phong ca\u0301ch a\u0306n m\u1ea1\u0306c n\u01b0\u0303 ti\u0301nh, m\u00ea\u0300m ma\u0323i se\u0303 tr\u01a1\u0309 la\u0323i trong ta\u0302m tri\u0301 cu\u0309a nh\u01b0\u0303ng phu\u0323 n\u01b0\u0303 \u0111a\u0303 bi\u0323 m\u00e2\u0301t \u0111i \u0111\u1ea1\u0306c quy\u00ea\u0300n \u0111u\u031b\u01a1\u0323c \u0111i\u1eb9\u0302u \u0111a\u0300 trong th\u01a1\u0300i chi\u00ea\u0301n.<\/p>\n

Trang ph\u1ee5c c\u1ee7a Christian Dior mang \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng n\u00e9t thanh l\u1ecbch, hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i, \u0111\u1ed3ng th\u1eddi t\u00f4n vinh \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng cong c\u1ee7a ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef. Nh\u1eefng thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf c\u1ee7a \u00f4ng nh\u1ea5n nh\u00e1 v\u00e0o ph\u1ea7n ng\u1ef1c v\u00e0 eo, \u00e1o kho\u00e1c c\u1ee9ng c\u00e1p cong nh\u1eb9 \u1edf ph\u1ea7n v\u1ea1t m\u1ed9t c\u00e1ch v\u1eefng ch\u00e3i, t\u1ea1o \u1ea3o gi\u00e1c v\u1ec1 ph\u1ea7n h\u00f4ng n\u1edf. K\u1ebft h\u1ee3p sau c\u00f9ng l\u00e0 chi\u1ebfc ch\u00e2n v\u00e1y ch\u1eef A x\u00f2e ra t\u1ea1o \u0111\u1ed9 uy\u1ec3n chuy\u1ec3n cho trang ph\u1ee5c. Nh\u00e0 thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf Dior s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng nhi\u1ec1u m\u1eabu v\u1ea3i v\u00f3c \u0111a d\u1ea1ng v\u1edbi s\u1ed1 l\u01b0\u1ee3ng l\u1edbn, nh\u1eb1m tho\u1ea3 m\u00e3n c\u01a1n kh\u00e1t l\u1ee5a l\u00e0 c\u1ee7a ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef h\u1eadu chi\u1ebfn tranh. Tr\u00ean n\u1ec1n v\u1ea3i voan, ngh\u00ecn \u0111\u00f3a hoa nh\u1ecf \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c th\u00eau t\u1ec9 m\u1ec9 lu\u00f4n n\u1edf r\u1ed9, th\u1eadm ch\u00ed \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c k\u1ebft ho\u00e0n to\u00e0n th\u1ee7 c\u00f4ng, sao cho gi\u1ed1ng v\u1edbi hoa th\u1eadt nh\u1ea5t. Nh\u1eefng thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf c\u1ee7a th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u DIOR nhanh ch\u00f3ng v\u01b0\u01a1n t\u1ea7m th\u1ebf gi\u1edbi v\u00e0 tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng. Christian Dior qua \u0111\u1eddi v\u00e0o n\u0103m 1957. C\u01a1 nghi\u1ec7p c\u1ee7a \u00f4ng ngay l\u1eadp t\u1ee9c \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ti\u1ebfp qu\u1ea3n b\u1edfi m\u1ed9t ch\u00e0ng trai, ng\u01b0\u1eddi m\u00e0 m\u1ed9t ng\u00e0y c\u0169ng s\u1ebd t\u1ef1 vi\u1ebft t\u00ean m\u00ecnh v\u00e0o l\u1ecbch s\u1eed th\u1eddi trang, v\u00e0 \u0111\u00f3 ch\u00ednh l\u00e0 Yves Saint Laurent.<\/p>\n

\"Yves
Saint Laurent la\u0300 ngu\u031b\u01a1\u0300i \u0111\u00e2\u0300u tie\u0302n bi\u00ea\u0301n b\u1ecd\u0302 suit Le Smoking cu\u0309a \u0111a\u0300n o\u0302ng tha\u0300nh chi\u00ea\u0301c tuxedo cho phu\u0323 n\u01b0\u0303<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Nh\u01b0 gi\u1ea5c m\u01a1 c\u1ee7a m\u1ecdi nh\u00e0 thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf, ch\u00e0ng thanh ni\u00ean Yves 17 tu\u1ed5i \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c Christian Dior tuy\u1ec3n th\u1eb3ng l\u00e0m tr\u1ee3 l\u00fd sau khi xem qua b\u1ea3n ph\u00e1c th\u1ea3o. V\u00e0 khi ng\u00e0i Dior qua \u0111\u1eddi, Yves Saint Laurent \u0111\u00e3 kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ee5 l\u00f2ng \u00f4ng khi x\u00e2y d\u1ef1ng l\u00ean m\u1ed9t tri\u1ec1u \u0111\u1ea1i m\u1edbi cho th\u1eddi trang Ph\u00e1p v\u00e0 th\u1ebf gi\u1edbi. Khi Yves Saint Laurent ti\u1ebfp qu\u1ea3n nh\u00e0 m\u1ed1t DIOR, \u00f4ng c\u1ea3i ti\u1ebfn di s\u1ea3n c\u1ee7a DIOR theo c\u00e1ch c\u1ee7a m\u00ecnh: nh\u1eefng chi\u1ebfc \u0111\u1ea7m h\u1ea1 eo, c\u1eaft ng\u1eafn l\u00ean v\u00e0 x\u00f2e thoai tho\u1ea3i, th\u1eadm ch\u00ed s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng c\u1ea3 da thu\u1ed9c. T\u1eeb nh\u1eefng n\u0103m th\u00e1ng \u1ea5y, gi\u1edbi m\u1ed9 \u0111i\u1ec7u \u0111\u00e3 th\u1ea5y r\u00f5 c\u00e1 t\u00ednh n\u1ed5i lo\u1ea1n c\u1ee7a Saint Laurent trong nh\u00e0 m\u1ed1t gia gi\u00e1o b\u1eadc nh\u1ea5t Paris l\u00fac b\u1ea5y gi\u1edd. Ch\u1ee9ng t\u1ecf r\u1eb1ng, khi ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0m vi\u1ec7c d\u01b0\u1edbi tr\u01b0\u1edbng c\u1ee7a ai kh\u00e1c, \u00f4ng \u0111\u00e3 kh\u00f4ng th\u1ec3 b\u1ed9c l\u1ed9 h\u1ebft \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c kh\u1ea3 n\u0103ng c\u1ee7a m\u00ecnh. V\u00ec th\u1ebf, Yves Saint Laurent \u0111\u00e3 th\u00e0nh l\u1eadp nh\u00e3n hi\u1ec7u mang t\u00ean m\u00ecnh v\u00e0o n\u0103m 1962.<\/p>\n

Nh\u1eefng thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf \u0111\u1ea7u ti\u00ean c\u1ee7a \u00f4ng mang c\u1ea3m gi\u00e1c m\u1edbi l\u1ea1 m\u00e0 c\u0169ng th\u00e2n thu\u1ed9c: d\u00e1ng \u0111\u1ea7m, \u00e1o kho\u00e1c kh\u00f4ng b\u00f3 s\u00e1t ng\u01b0\u1eddi m\u00e0 x\u00f2e nh\u1eb9 l\u00e0m c\u01a1 th\u1ec3 l\u1ecdt th\u1ecfm, bi\u1ebfn m\u1ea5t trong b\u1ed9 trang ph\u1ee5c. Qua t\u1eebng th\u1eddi k\u1ef3, \u00f4ng thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf ra nhi\u1ec1u b\u1ed9 trang ph\u1ee5c g\u00e2y ti\u1ebfng vang v\u00ec \u0111\u1ed9 c\u1ea5p ti\u1ebfn v\u00e0 v\u01b0\u1ee3t th\u1eddi \u0111\u1ea1i. \u00d4ng l\u00e0 ng\u01b0\u1eddi \u0111\u1ea7u ti\u00ean bi\u1ebfn b\u1ed9 suit Le Smoking c\u1ee7a \u0111\u00e0n \u00f4ng th\u00e0nh chi\u1ebfc tuxedo \u0111\u1ea7u ti\u00ean cho ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef. Saint Laurent c\u00f2n thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf ra chi\u1ebfc \u0111\u1ea7m v\u00e0 \u00e1o blouse xuy\u00ean th\u1ea5u \u0111\u1ea7y t\u00e1o b\u1ea1o, l\u1ea7n \u0111\u1ea7u ti\u00ean \u0111\u1ec3 l\u1ed9 da th\u1ecbt c\u1ee7a ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef qua l\u00e0n v\u1ea3i voan \u0111en m\u1ecfng manh. \u00d4ng c\u00f2n th\u1ec3 hi\u1ec7n s\u1ef1 t\u00f2 m\u00f2 v\u1edbi ngh\u1ec7 thu\u1eadt v\u00e0 v\u0103n h\u00f3a khi thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf ra chi\u1ebfc \u0111\u1ea7m l\u1ea5y c\u1ea3m h\u1ee9ng t\u1eeb tranh c\u1ee7a Mondrian, v\u00e0 nh\u1eefng BST haute couture l\u1ea5y c\u1ea3m h\u1ee9ng t\u1eeb v\u0103n h\u00f3a Nh\u1eadt B\u1ea3n, \u1ea4n \u0110\u1ed9. T\u1ea5t c\u1ea3 nh\u1eefng s\u00e1ng t\u1ea1o \u0111\u00f3 \u0111\u00e3 \u0111\u1eb7t n\u1ec1n m\u00f3ng v\u1eefng ch\u1eafc cho n\u1ec1n th\u1eddi trang to\u00e0n c\u1ea7u.<\/p>\n

M\u1ecdi c\u1ed9t m\u1ed1c \u0111\u1ec1u l\u00e0 bu\u1ed5i \u0111\u1ea7u r\u1ef1c r\u1ee1, t\u1ea1o n\u00ean nh\u1eefng b\u01b0\u1edbc ngo\u1eb7t cho l\u1ecbch s\u1eed th\u1eddi trang. N\u1ebfu nh\u01b0 c\u00f4 Gabrielle Chanel b\u1eaft \u0111\u1ea7u v\u1edbi vi\u1ec7c truy\u1ec1n c\u1ea3m h\u1ee9ng cho vi\u1ec7c x\u00f3a nh\u00f2a ranh gi\u1edbi c\u1ee7a nam v\u00e0 n\u1eef, ng\u00e0i Dior nh\u1eafc nh\u1edf ch\u00fang ta v\u1ec1 \u0111\u1eb7c quy\u1ec1n thanh l\u1ecbch v\u00e0 n\u1eef t\u00ednh, c\u00f2n Saint Laurent l\u00e0 k\u1ebb \u0111\u1ed9t ph\u00e1 \u0111\u01b0a th\u1eddi trang ra kh\u1ecfi s\u1ef1 an to\u00e0n c\u1ed1 h\u1eefu. Ba tr\u1ee5 c\u1ed9t, ba ng\u1ecdn h\u1ea3i \u0111\u0103ng th\u1eafp s\u00e1ng cho con \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng s\u00e1ng t\u1ea1o c\u1ee7a th\u1eddi trang t\u01b0\u01a1ng lai.\"\"<\/p>\n

Xem th\u00eam b\u00e0i vi\u1ebft c\u00f9ng chuy\u00ean m\u1ee5c:<\/strong><\/p>\n