{"id":151401,"date":"2024-06-05T00:00:18","date_gmt":"2024-06-04T17:00:18","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/s6.letweb.net\/heritage-fashion\/nghe-thuat-cua-phuc-trang\/"},"modified":"2024-06-05T00:00:18","modified_gmt":"2024-06-04T17:00:18","slug":"nghe-thuat-cua-phuc-trang","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/s6.letweb.net\/heritage-fashion\/nghe-thuat-cua-phuc-trang\/","title":{"rendered":"Ngh\u1ec7 thu\u1eadt c\u1ee7a ph\u1ee5c trang"},"content":{"rendered":"

B\u00e0i RED H\u00c0 PH\u01af\u01a0NG<\/strong>
\n\u1ea2nh INTERNET<\/strong><\/p>\n

Nh\u1eefng nh\u00e0 thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf (NTK) ti\u00ean phong \u0111\u01b0a ngh\u1ec7 thu\u1eadt th\u1ecb gi\u00e1c v\u00e0o trang ph\u1ee5c nh\u01b0 Paul Poiret, Elsa Schiaparelli, cho t\u1edbi Rei Kawakubo, Martin Margiela, Alexander McQueen \u0111\u00e3 bi\u1ebfn \u201cHaute couture\u201d (th\u1eddi trang cao c\u1ea5p) th\u00e0nh ngh\u1ec7 thu\u1eadt th\u1ef1c th\u1ee5.<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n

\"Ng\u01b0\u1eddi
M\u1ecd\u0302t thi\u00ea\u0301t k\u00ea\u0301 trong BST cu\u0309a Maison Martin Margiela h\u01a1\u0323p ta\u0301c v\u01a1\u0301i H&M<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Ng\u01b0\u1eddi ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef k\u1ef3 l\u1ea1<\/strong><\/p>\n

V\u00e0o n\u0103m 1981 \u1edf Paris, m\u1ed9t ng\u01b0\u1eddi ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef Nh\u1eadt B\u1ea3n l\u00e0m x\u00f4n xao c\u1ea3 kinh \u0111\u00f4 th\u1eddi trang danh ti\u1ebfng. B\u00e0 kh\u00f4ng xu\u1ea5t th\u00e2n t\u1eeb n\u1ec1n gi\u00e1o d\u1ee5c th\u1eddi trang ch\u00ednh th\u1ed1ng n\u00e0o, ch\u1ec9 l\u00e0m \u0111\u1ed3 d\u1ef1a theo b\u1ea3n n\u0103ng v\u00e0 t\u1ef1 h\u1ecdc h\u1ecfi, m\u00e0y m\u00f2. Nh\u1eefng b\u1ed9 s\u01b0u t\u1eadp (BST) c\u1ee7a b\u00e0 g\u00e2y s\u1ed1c v\u00ec \u0111\u1ed9 gai g\u00f3c k\u1ef3 l\u1ea1 \u1edf m\u1ed9t ng\u01b0\u1eddi ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef b\u00ecnh th\u01b0\u1eddng: ph\u00e1 hu\u1ef7 k\u1ebft c\u1ea5u c\u1ee7a qu\u1ea7n \u00e1o, xoay chuy\u1ec3n v\u00e0 c\u1eaft gh\u00e9p n\u00f3 th\u00e0nh nh\u1eefng tuy\u00ean ng\u00f4n m\u1ea1nh m\u1ebd. \u0110\u00f3 ch\u00ednh l\u00e0 Rei Kawakubo \u2013 NTK \u0111\u1ee9ng sau Comme des Gar\u00e7ons v\u1edbi tinh th\u1ea7n x\u00f3a nh\u00f2a ranh gi\u1edbi gi\u1eefa t\u00ednh nam v\u00e0 n\u1eef trong ph\u1ee5c trang.<\/p>\n

Th\u1eddi trang n\u1eef tho\u00e1t ly kh\u1ecfi m\u1ee5c \u0111\u00edch th\u1ef1c d\u1ee5ng l\u00e0 khi\u1ebfn ph\u00e1i \u0111\u1eb9p tr\u1edf n\u00ean h\u1ea5p d\u1eabn h\u01a1n trong m\u1eaft \u0111\u00e0n \u00f4ng, n\u00f3 tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh ti\u1ebfng n\u00f3i \u0111\u1ed9c l\u1eadp nh\u1eb1m th\u1ec3 hi\u1ec7n nh\u1eefng suy t\u01b0 c\u00e1 t\u00ednh v\u00e0 \u0111\u1ea7y chi\u00eam nghi\u1ec7m c\u1ee7a h\u1ecd. BST g\u00e2y \u1ea5n t\u01b0\u1ee3ng m\u1ea1nh v\u1edbi gi\u1edbi m\u1ed9 \u0111i\u1ec7u l\u00e0 Xu\u00e2n-H\u00e8 1997, khi b\u00e0 \u0111\u01b0a ra s\u00e0n di\u1ec5n nh\u1eefng chi\u1ebfc v\u00e1y h\u1ecda ti\u1ebft k\u1ebb caro gingham g\u00f3i ch\u1eb7t c\u01a1 th\u1ec3 ng\u01b0\u1eddi m\u1eabu, v\u00e0 \u0111i\u1ec3m nh\u1ea5n l\u00e0 nh\u1eefng \u0111\u1ee5n b\u00f4ng tr\u1ed3i ra m\u1ed9t c\u00e1ch ng\u1eabu nhi\u00ean. C\u1ea3 t\u1ed5ng th\u1ec3 chi\u1ebfc \u0111\u1ea7m l\u00e0 nh\u1eefng \u0111i\u1ec3m l\u1ed3i l\u00f5m k\u00ec l\u1ea1. N\u00f3i n\u00f4m na, ch\u00fang g\u1ee3i nh\u1edb t\u1edbi nh\u1eefng chi\u1ebfc b\u00e1nh \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c g\u00f3i gh\u00e9m v\u1ee5ng v\u1ec1 nh\u1eb1m bi\u1ec3u \u0111\u1ea1t th\u00f4ng \u0111i\u1ec7p v\u1ec1 ng\u01b0\u1eddi ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef lu\u00f4n b\u1ecb soi x\u00e9t v\u00e0 gi\u1edbi h\u1ea1n b\u1edfi nh\u1eefng quy chu\u1ea9n, khi\u1ebfn h\u1ecd lu\u00f4n s\u1ed1ng trong nh\u1eefng tr\u1ea1ng th\u00e1i k\u00e9m t\u1ef1 nhi\u00ean v\u00e0 kh\u00f4ng tho\u1ea3i m\u00e1i.<\/p>\n

Nh\u00e0 m\u1ed1t Comme des Gar\u00e7ons kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 th\u00e0nh vi\u00ean ch\u00ednh th\u1ee9c n\u1eb1m trong hi\u1ec7p h\u1ed9i Haute Couture c\u1ee7a Ph\u00e1p. Th\u1ebf nh\u01b0ng, nh\u1eefng BST c\u1ee7a nh\u00e3n h\u00e0ng lu\u00f4n \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u0103n \u0111\u00f3n v\u00e0 m\u1ed5 x\u1ebb nh\u01b0 tuy\u00ean ng\u00f4n ngh\u1ec7 thu\u1eadt c\u1ee7a Kawakubo qua c\u00e1c th\u1eddi k\u1ef3. M\u1ed7i m\u00f3n \u0111\u1ed3 \u0111\u1ec1u mang gi\u00e1 tr\u1ecb s\u01b0u t\u1eadp cao nh\u01b0 t\u00e1c ph\u1ea9m ngh\u1ec7 thu\u1eadt \u0111\u00edch th\u1ef1c. N\u0103m 2017, b\u1ea3o t\u00e0ng Metropolitan New York tri \u00e2n s\u1ef1 nghi\u1ec7p c\u1ee7a Rei Kawakubo khi tr\u01b0ng b\u00e0y nh\u1eefng b\u1ed9 ph\u1ee5c trang c\u1ee7a b\u00e0, v\u00e0 l\u1ea5y Comme des Gar\u00e7ons l\u00e0m ch\u1ee7 \u0111\u1ec1 cho bu\u1ed5i ti\u1ec7c Met Gala. \u0110\u00f3 l\u00e0 minh ch\u1ee9ng cho t\u1ea7m quan tr\u1ecdng c\u00f3 t\u00ednh l\u1ecbch s\u1eed c\u1ee7a Kawakubo trong cu\u1ed9c c\u00e1ch m\u1ea1ng ngh\u1ec7 thu\u1eadt th\u1eddi trang.<\/p>\n

\"Ng\u01b0\u1eddi
BST La Poupe\u0301e
\n(Bu\u0301p be\u0302) na\u0306m 1997 cu\u0309a McQueen l\u00e2\u0301y y\u0301 tu\u031b\u01a1\u0309ng t\u01b0\u0300 chu\u00f4\u0303i ta\u0301c ph\u00e2\u0309m cu\u0309a ngh\u1eb9\u0302 si\u0303 Hans Bellmar<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Nh\u1eefng ch\u00e0ng ngh\u1ec7 s\u0129<\/strong><\/p>\n

C\u0169ng trong nh\u1eefng n\u0103m 1980-1990, n\u01b0\u1edbc B\u1ec9 l\u00e0 n\u01a1i s\u1ea3n sinh ra nhi\u1ec1u NTK c\u00f3 c\u1ed1t c\u00e1ch ngh\u1ec7 s\u0129. Ch\u00e0ng trai tr\u1ebb Martin Margiela \u0111\u00e3 cho ra m\u1eaft BST \u0111\u1ea7u ti\u00ean c\u1ee7a m\u00ecnh v\u00e0o n\u0103m 1989. C\u00e1 t\u00ednh n\u1ed5i lo\u1ea1n c\u1ee7a \u00f4ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c kh\u1eb3ng \u0111\u1ecbnh ngay khi Margiela ch\u1ecdn t\u1ed5 ch\u1ee9c show \u1edf m\u1ed9t qu\u00e1n c\u00e0 ph\u00ea t\u1ea1i Paris. \u00d4ng kh\u00f4ng th\u1ebft \u0111\u00e3i nh\u1eefng v\u1ecb kh\u00e1ch c\u00f3 h\u00ecnh th\u1ee9c h\u00e0o nho\u00e1ng, m\u00e0 gi\u1ea3n d\u1ecb v\u00e0 c\u00f3 ph\u1ea7n xu\u1ec1 x\u00f2a. Ng\u01b0\u1eddi m\u1eabu b\u01b0\u1edbc ra v\u1edbi hai c\u00e1nh tay \u00f4m l\u1ea5y c\u01a1 th\u1ec3, ch\u1ec9 \u0111eo g\u0103ng tay v\u00e0 m\u1eb7c \u0111\u1ed9c chi\u1ebfc qu\u1ea7n tr\u1eafng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c c\u1eaft may ng\u1ed5 ng\u00e1o. Tr\u00ean \u0111\u00f4i ch\u00e2n c\u00f4 l\u00e0 phi\u00ean b\u1ea3n \u0111\u1ea7u ti\u00ean c\u1ee7a \u0111\u00f4i gi\u00e0y \u201cm\u00f3ng ng\u1ef1a\u201d tr\u1ee9 danh c\u1ee7a nh\u00e0 m\u1ed1t Maison Margiela.<\/p>\n

M\u1ed9t thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf n\u1ed5i b\u1eadt kh\u00e1c c\u1ee7a \u00f4ng l\u00e0 chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o l\u00e0m t\u1eeb nhi\u1ec1u b\u1ed9 t\u00f3c gi\u1ea3 s\u1ee3i polyester m\u00e0u v\u00e0ng \u00f3ng, th\u00e1ch th\u1ee9c ng\u01b0\u1eddi nh\u00ecn khi t\u1ea1o c\u1ea3m gi\u00e1c ng\u1ee9a ng\u00e1y v\u00e0 r\u1ed1i b\u1eddi. \u0110\u00e2y l\u00e0 trang ph\u1ee5c hay t\u00e1c ph\u1ea9m ngh\u1ec7 thu\u1eadt? \u0110\u00f3 l\u00e0 c\u00e1ch m\u00e0 Martin Margiela ghi d\u1ea5u \u1ea5n c\u1ee7a m\u00ecnh nh\u01b0 m\u1ed9t ng\u01b0\u1eddi ngh\u1ec7 s\u0129. C\u00e1c thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf th\u1ec3 hi\u1ec7n tri\u1ebft l\u00fd th\u1eddi trang c\u1ee7a Martin: l\u1ea5y nh\u1eefng g\u00ec t\u1ea7m th\u01b0\u1eddng, v\u1ee5n v\u1eb7t nh\u1ea5t c\u1ee7a cu\u1ed9c s\u1ed1ng v\u00e0 \u0111\u01b0a v\u00e0o th\u1eddi trang cao c\u1ea5p, ph\u00e1 v\u1ee1 nh\u1eadn th\u1ee9c c\u1ed1 h\u1eefu v\u1ec1 \u201cqu\u1ea7n l\u00e0 \u00e1o l\u01b0\u1ee3t\u201d. Margiela cho th\u1ea5y qu\u1ea7n \u00e1o kh\u00f4ng c\u1ea7n tr\u00f3i bu\u1ed9c con ng\u01b0\u1eddi, bi\u1ebfn h\u1ecd tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh m\u1ed9t chi\u1ebfc m\u00f3c treo m\u00f3n h\u00e0ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u1ea3n xu\u1ea5t h\u00e0ng lo\u1ea1t v\u00e0 tr\u1edf n\u00ean v\u00f4 gi\u00e1 tr\u1ecb.<\/p>\n

\"N\u0103m
Comme des Garc\u0327ons cu\u0309a Kawakubo \u0111u\u031b\u01a1\u0323c cho\u0323n la\u0300m chu\u0309 \u0111\u00ea\u0300 cho bu\u00f4\u0309i ti\u1eb9\u0302c Met Gala<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

N\u1ebfu nh\u01b0 Rei Kawakubo l\u00e0 kh\u1edfi \u0111\u1ea7u c\u1ee7a cu\u1ed9c h\u1ed9i tho\u1ea1i, Martin Margiela thong th\u1ea3 ti\u1ebfp l\u1eddi, th\u00ec Alexander McQueen s\u1ebd chen v\u00e0o khi k\u1ecbch t\u00ednh d\u00e2ng tr\u00e0o. NTK ng\u01b0\u1eddi Anh Alexander McQueen l\u00e0 t\u00e0i n\u0103ng tr\u1ebb xu\u1ea5t ch\u00fang nh\u1eefng n\u0103m 90. M\u1ed7i BST c\u1ee7a McQueen \u0111\u1ec1u l\u00e0 m\u00e0n tr\u00ecnh di\u1ec5n ngh\u1ec7 thu\u1eadt s\u1ed1ng \u0111\u1eb7c s\u1eafc. \u0110\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t, \u00f4ng n\u1ed5i danh v\u1edbi nh\u1eefng pha th\u1eed th\u00e1ch ng\u01b0\u1eddi m\u1eabu v\u1edbi c\u00e1c ph\u01b0\u01a1ng th\u1ee9c tr\u00ecnh di\u1ec5n l\u1ea1 l\u00f9ng. \u0110i\u1ec3n h\u00ecnh l\u00e0 BST La Poup\u00e9e (B\u00fap b\u00ea) n\u0103m 1997 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c l\u1ea5y \u00fd t\u01b0\u1edfng t\u1eeb chu\u1ed7i t\u00e1c ph\u1ea9m c\u1ee7a ngh\u1ec7 s\u0129 Hans Bellmar. McQueen \u0111\u01b0a t\u00ednh b\u1ecb \u0111\u1ed9ng v\u00e0o c\u1ea5u tr\u00fac trang ph\u1ee5c, \u0111\u1ec3 ng\u01b0\u1eddi m\u1eabu ph\u1ea3i di chuy\u1ec3n c\u1ee9ng nh\u1eafc, kh\u00f3 kh\u0103n trong l\u00e0n n\u01b0\u1edbc khi c\u01a1 th\u1ec3 h\u1ecd b\u1ecb \u0111\u1eb7t trong nh\u1eefng b\u1ed9 trang ph\u1ee5c \u0111\u1ecbnh h\u00ecnh t\u01b0 th\u1ebf. B\u00fap b\u00ea l\u00e0 \u1ea9n d\u1ee5 cho nh\u1eefng con ng\u01b0\u1eddi xinh \u0111\u1eb9p, nh\u01b0ng lu\u00f4n b\u1ecb \u0111\u00f3ng khung, lu\u00f4n ch\u1ecbu s\u1ef1 \u0111\u1eb7t \u0111\u1ec3 c\u1ee7a ng\u01b0\u1eddi kh\u00e1c m\u00e0 kh\u00f4ng th\u1ec3 n\u00f3i l\u00ean mong mu\u1ed1n c\u1ee7a m\u00ecnh.<\/p>\n

D\u00f9 y\u00eau th\u00edch hay gh\u00e9t b\u1ecf. B\u00e0ng ho\u00e0ng hay say m\u00ea. Nh\u1eefng ai t\u1eebng xem c\u00e1c t\u00e1c ph\u1ea9m ph\u1ee5c trang c\u1ee7a Comme des Gar\u00e7ons, Maison Margiela v\u00e0 Alexander McQueen \u0111\u1ec1u b\u1ecb \u1ea5n t\u01b0\u1ee3ng v\u00ec h\u00ecnh th\u1ee9c v\u00e0 th\u00f4ng \u0111i\u1ec7p \u0111\u1ed9c \u0111\u00e1o c\u1ee7a ch\u00fang. K\u1ec3 t\u1eeb khi ng\u00e0nh c\u00f4ng nghi\u1ec7p th\u1eddi trang ph\u00e1t tri\u1ec3n v\u00e0 vi\u1ec7c s\u1ea3n xu\u1ea5t h\u00e0ng lo\u1ea1t tr\u1edf n\u00ean ph\u1ed5 bi\u1ebfn, Haute Couture n\u00f3i chung \u0111\u00e3 v\u1ea5p ph\u1ea3i v\u00f4 v\u00e0n kh\u00f3 kh\u0103n v\u00ec vi\u1ec7c sao ch\u00e9p c\u00e1c m\u1eabu thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf tr\u1edf n\u00ean d\u1ec5 d\u00e0ng h\u01a1n bao gi\u1edd h\u1ebft. \u0110\u00f3 l\u00e0 \u0111\u1ed9ng l\u1ef1c cho c\u00e1c NTK th\u1eddi trang kh\u00f4ng ng\u1eebng t\u00ecm ki\u1ebfm nh\u1eefng c\u1ea3i ti\u1ebfn trong may \u0111o v\u00e0 c\u00e1 t\u00ednh trong ch\u1ee7 \u0111\u1ec1. Gi\u00e1 tr\u1ecb \u0111\u1ed9c b\u1ea3n trong s\u00e1ng t\u1ea1o l\u00e0 c\u1ed1t l\u00f5i \u0111\u1ec3 g\u00ecn gi\u1eef ngh\u1ec7 thu\u1eadt g\u1eafn li\u1ec1n v\u1edbi s\u1ef1 ph\u00e1t tri\u1ec3n c\u1ee7a nh\u00e2n lo\u1ea1i. Suy cho c\u00f9ng, ph\u1ee5c trang c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 xem l\u00e0 tuy\u00ean ng\u00f4n kh\u1ea3ng kh\u00e1i nh\u1ea5t v\u1ec1 l\u1ed1i s\u1ed1ng c\u1ee7a m\u1ed9t con ng\u01b0\u1eddi \u1edf th\u1eddi \u0111\u1ea1i m\u00e0 n\u00f3 sinh ra.\"\"<\/p>\n

Xem th\u00eam b\u00e0i vi\u1ebft c\u00f9ng chuy\u00ean m\u1ee5c:<\/strong><\/p>\n