{"id":151423,"date":"2024-07-10T00:00:40","date_gmt":"2024-07-09T17:00:40","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/s6.letweb.net\/heritage-fashion\/van-dam-bien-khoi\/"},"modified":"2024-07-10T00:00:40","modified_gmt":"2024-07-09T17:00:40","slug":"van-dam-bien-khoi","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/s6.letweb.net\/heritage-fashion\/van-dam-bien-khoi\/","title":{"rendered":"V\u1ea1n d\u1eb7m bi\u1ec3n kh\u01a1i"},"content":{"rendered":"

B\u00e0i TH\u1ee6Y TI\u00caN
\n\u1ea2nh INTERNET<\/strong><\/p>\n

L\u1ecbch s\u1eed th\u1eddi trang v\u00e0 ngh\u1ec7 thu\u1eadt ch\u1ee9ng minh r\u1eb1ng s\u1ef1 ra \u0111\u1eddi c\u1ee7a m\u1ed7i xu h\u01b0\u1edbng l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t tuy\u00ean ng\u00f4n ph\u1ea3n kh\u00e1ng l\u1ea1i nh\u1eefng l\u00e0n s\u00f3ng tr\u01b0\u1edbc n\u00f3. V\u1ed1n ch\u1ec9 d\u00e0nh cho n\u00f4 l\u1ec7 v\u00e0 t\u00f9 nh\u00e2n, h\u1ecda ti\u1ebft k\u1ebb s\u1ecdc tr\u00ean \u00e1o th\u1ee7y th\u1ee7 d\u1ea7n b\u01b0\u1edbc ra \u00e1nh s\u00e1ng v\u00e0 l\u00e0m khu\u1ea5y \u0111\u1ea3o gi\u1edbi th\u1eddi trang v\u00e0o cu\u1ed1i th\u1ebf k\u1ef7 19, \u0111\u1ea7u th\u1ebf k\u1ef7 20.<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"
Ve\u0309 \u0111e\u0323p la\u0303ng t\u01b0\u0309 cu\u0309a James Dean trong chi\u00ea\u0301c a\u0301o Breton<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

M\u1ed9t quy\u1ec1n l\u1ef1c m\u1ec1m<\/strong><\/p>\n

B\u00ean c\u1ea1nh gi\u00e1 tr\u1ecb th\u1ea9m m\u1ef9, th\u1eddi trang bao ha\u0300m c\u1ea3 chi\u1ec1u k\u00edch ch\u00ednh tr\u1ecb, nh\u01b0 Andrew Bolton (nha\u0300 gi\u00e1m tuy\u1ec3n Vi\u1ec7n B\u1ea3o ta\u0300ng Ngh\u1ec7 thu\u1eadt Metropilitan, New York) t\u1eebng no\u0301i: \u201cY ph\u1ee5c la\u0300 t\u1ea5m g\u01b0\u01a1ng ph\u1ea3n chi\u1ebfu th\u1eddi \u0111\u1ea1i”. Gi\u1eefa th\u1ebf k\u1ef7 19, Hoa\u0300ng gia Anh s\u1edf h\u1eefu l\u1ef1c l\u01b0\u1ee3ng h\u1ea3i qu\u00e2n m\u1ea1nh nh\u1ea5t th\u1ebf gi\u1edbi, khi\u1ebfn trang ph\u1ee5c ha\u0300ng h\u1ea3i c\u0169ng theo \u0111o\u0301 tr\u1edf tha\u0300nh bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng c\u1ee7a l\u00f2ng d\u0169ng c\u1ea3m va\u0300 uy th\u1ebf l\u1eabm li\u1ec7t c\u1ee7a qu\u1ed1c gia. N\u0103m 1846, N\u1eef hoa\u0300ng Victoria \u0111\u00e3 \u0111\u1eb7t may cho con trai b\u1ed1n tu\u1ed5i c\u1ee7a m\u00ecnh la\u0300 Th\u00e2n v\u01b0\u01a1ng x\u1ee9 Wales Edward b\u1ed9 ph\u1ee5c trang l\u1ea5y c\u1ea3m h\u1ee9ng t\u1eeb gam ma\u0300u xanh, tra\u0306\u0301ng va\u0300 c\u1ed5 \u00e1o th\u1ee7y th\u1ee7. Ba\u0300 na\u0300o \u0111o\u00e1n tr\u01b0\u1edbc \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c r\u1eb1ng, trong b\u1ed1i c\u1ea3nh \u0111\u00f2n b\u1ea9y c\u1ee7a hai cu\u1ed9c th\u1ebf chi\u1ebfn va\u0300o th\u1ebf k\u1ef7 20, tra\u0300o l\u01b0u y ph\u1ee5c ha\u0300ng h\u1ea3i s\u1ebd tr\u1ed7i d\u1eady m\u1ea1nh m\u1ebd h\u01a1n bao gi\u1edd h\u1ebft.<\/p>\n

Kh\u00e1c v\u1edbi d\u00e1ng c\u1ed5 tam gi\u00e1c g\u1eadp truy\u1ec1n th\u1ed1ng, \u00e1o Breton da\u0300nh cho h\u1ea3i qu\u00e2n Ph\u00e1p ra ma\u0306\u0301t t\u1eeb n\u0103m 1858 mang \u0111\u1eadm d\u1ea5u \u1ea5n 21 s\u1ecdc k\u1ebb ngang tr\u00ean \u00e1o v\u1edbi hai ma\u0300u xanh, tra\u0306\u0301ng. S\u1ecdc \u00e1o \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c cho la\u0300 t\u01b0\u1ee3ng tr\u01b0ng cho 21 tr\u1eadn tha\u0306\u0301ng vang d\u1ed9i c\u1ee7a Napoleon khi \u0111\u1ed1i \u0111\u1ea7u v\u1edbi \u0110\u1ebf qu\u1ed1c Anh. Hai ma\u0300u sa\u0306\u0301c t\u01b0\u01a1ng ph\u1ea3n \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c tinh ch\u1ecdn \u0111\u1ec3 thu\u1eadn ti\u1ec7n cho c\u00f4ng t\u00e1c c\u1ee9u h\u1ed9 khi binh l\u00ednh ng\u00e3 kh\u1ecfi m\u1ea1n ta\u0300u.<\/p>\n

Men theo tuy\u1ebfn giao th\u01b0\u01a1ng ha\u0300ng h\u1ea3i, c\u00e1c n\u01b0\u1edbc ph\u01b0\u01a1ng \u0110\u00f4ng c\u0169ng d\u1ea7n ba\u0306\u0301t nh\u1ecbp v\u1edbi d\u00f2ng ch\u1ea3y bi\u1ec3n kh\u01a1i trong y ph\u1ee5c c\u1ee7a th\u1eddi \u0111\u1ea1i. N\u0103m 1913, Hoa\u0300ng h\u1eadu Nga Alexandra Feodorovna \u0111\u00e3 ghi l\u1ea1i h\u00ecnh \u1ea3nh con trai m\u00ecnh trong chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o c\u1ed5 g\u1eadp th\u1ee7y th\u1ee7 v\u1edbi nh\u1eefng \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng vi\u1ec1n vu\u00f4ng go\u0301c \u1edf ph\u1ea7n m\u00e9p. Ri\u00eang \u1edf Nh\u1eadt, n\u1ebfu phong c\u00e1ch na\u0300y \u0111\u00e3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c t\u00edch h\u1ee3p va\u0300o \u0111\u1ed3ng ph\u1ee5c nam sinh t\u1eeb n\u0103m 1879, th\u00ec \u0111\u1ebfn n\u0103m 1920 la\u0300n so\u0301ng \u0111\u1ed3ng ph\u1ee5c n\u1eef sinh m\u1edbi d\u1ea7n thay \u0111\u1ed5i \u0111\u1ec3 tr\u1edf n\u00ean hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i h\u01a1n, xo\u0301a nh\u00f2a d\u1ea5u t\u00edch c\u1ee7a th\u1eddi \u0111\u1ea1i Thi\u00ean hoa\u0300ng Minh Tr\u1ecb v\u1edbi nh\u1eefng chi\u1ebfc qu\u1ea7n hakama x\u1ebfp ly truy\u1ec1n th\u1ed1ng. T\u1eeb \u0111\u00e2y, ta th\u1ea5y nh\u1eefng n\u1ed9i ha\u0300m tuy\u00ean ng\u00f4n kh\u00f4ng k\u1ec3 \u0110\u00f4ng \u2013 T\u00e2y ma\u0300 m\u1ed9t chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf theo l\u1ed1i th\u1ee7y th\u1ee7 th\u1eddi b\u1ea5y gi\u1edd co\u0301 th\u1ec3 \u0111o\u0301ng go\u0301p va\u0300o di\u1ec5n ng\u00f4n chung: s\u1ef1 kh\u1eb3ng \u0111\u1ecbnh tinh th\u1ea7n t\u1eadp th\u1ec3 hay \u0111\u1ecba v\u1ecb x\u00e3 h\u1ed9i, \u0111\u1ed3ng th\u1eddi th\u00e1ch th\u1ee9c nh\u1eefng gi\u00e1 tr\u1ecb \u0111\u00e3 c\u0169 trong t\u00e2m th\u1ebf c\u1ee7a k\u1ebb chi\u1ebfn tha\u0306\u0301ng.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Audrey Tautou va\u0300o vai Coco Chanel trong b\u1ecd\u0302 phim Coco Avant Chanel (2009)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Tuy\u00ean ng\u00f4n b\u1ea3n th\u1ec3<\/strong><\/p>\n

Th\u1ebf nh\u01b0ng, \u0111\u1ebfn khi Coco Chanel (1883-1971) thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf l\u1ea1i \u00e1o Breton va\u0300o n\u0103m 1917, h\u1ecda ti\u1ebft k\u1ebb s\u1ecdc m\u1edbi ch\u00ednh th\u1ee9c b\u01b0\u1edbc va\u0300o l\u00e3nh \u0111\u1ecba th\u1eddi trang cao c\u1ea5p, b\u1ed9c l\u1ed9 c\u00e1 t\u00ednh \u0111\u1ed9c l\u1eadp c\u1ee7a ng\u01b0\u1eddi m\u1eb7c. L\u1edbn l\u00ean v\u1edbi chi\u1ebfc corset (\u00e1o n\u1ecbt ng\u1ef1c) \u0111\u1ecbnh h\u00ecnh phom d\u00e1ng c\u01a1 th\u1ec3, Coco Chanel gi\u1ea3i pho\u0301ng b\u1ea3n th\u1ec3 m\u00ecnh kh\u1ecfi nh\u1eefng gi\u1edbi h\u1ea1n c\u1ee7a c\u00e1i \u0111\u1eb9p b\u1eb1ng c\u00e1ch ph\u1ed1i \u00e1o Breton v\u1edbi qu\u1ea7n da\u0300i va\u0300 tha\u0306\u0301t l\u01b0ng b\u1ea3n to, v\u1ebb ngoa\u0300i n\u0103ng \u0111\u1ed9ng gi\u1ea3n d\u1ecb kh\u00e1c h\u1eb3n v\u1edbi nh\u1eefng chi\u1ebfc v\u00e1y d\u1ea1 h\u1ed9i xa hoa ph\u1ee7 \u0111\u1ea7y \u0111\u0103ng ten th\u1eddi Belle \u00c9poque (1871-1914) b\u1ea5y gi\u1edd.<\/p>\n

C\u0169ng trong th\u1eddi gian na\u0300y, la\u0300n so\u0301ng n\u1eef quy\u1ec1n l\u1ea7n th\u1ee9 nh\u1ea5t \u0111\u00e3 gi\u00fap ph\u00e1i n\u1eef gia\u0300nh \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c quy\u1ec1n b\u1ea7u c\u1eed va\u0300 go\u0301p m\u1eb7t nhi\u1ec1u h\u01a1n trong c\u00e1c tr\u00f2 ch\u01a1i th\u1ec3 thao. Ch\u00ednh trong c\u00e1ch CHANEL ch\u1ecdn v\u1ea3i jersey (m\u1ed9t lo\u1ea1i v\u1ea3i th\u01b0\u1eddng d\u00f9ng cho nam gi\u1edbi) \u0111\u1ec3 may \u00e1o Breton, thay v\u00ec v\u1ea3i len \u0111an c\u1ee7a thuy\u1ec1n nh\u00e2n th\u00f4ng th\u01b0\u1eddng, c\u00f4 \u0111\u00e3 giong bu\u1ed3m \u0111\u01b0a m\u01b0u c\u1ea7u b\u00ecnh \u0111\u1eb3ng gi\u1edbi v\u01b0\u1ee3t kh\u1ecfi n\u1ed9i ha\u0300m ch\u00ednh tr\u1ecb, ti\u1ebfn \u0111\u1ebfn s\u1ef1 b\u00ecnh \u0111\u1eb3ng c\u1ea3 v\u1ec1 hi\u1ec7n di\u1ec7n, th\u1eddi trang va\u0300 phong c\u00e1ch s\u1ed1ng. Th\u1ebf h\u1ec7 ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef tr\u1ebb nhi\u1ec7t tha\u0300nh na\u0306\u0301m ba\u0306\u0301t tinh th\u1ea7n c\u1ee7a CHANEL: h\u1ecd ca\u0306\u0301t nga\u0306\u0301n to\u0301c, m\u1eb7c nh\u1eefng chi\u1ebfc v\u00e1y s\u01a1 mi s\u1ecdc th\u1eb3ng ta\u0306\u0301p, qu\u1ea7n t\u00e2y, \u0111\u1ed3 th\u1ec3 thao hay \u0111\u1ed3 b\u01a1i k\u1ebb s\u1ecdc va\u0300 nh\u1ea3y \u0111i\u1ec7u Charleston. Phong c\u00e1ch ha\u0300ng h\u1ea3i v\u01b0\u1ee3t kh\u1ecfi \u0111\u1ecbnh t\u00ednh th\u1ee7y th\u1ee7 \u0111\u1ec3 ch\u1ea1m \u0111\u1ebfn c\u00e1 t\u00ednh ph\u00e1i n\u1eef va\u0300 v\u1ebb phi\u00eau l\u00e3ng trong th\u1eddi trang.<\/p>\n

V\u01b0\u1ee3t l\u00ean c\u00e2u chuy\u1ec7n v\u1ec1 gi\u1edbi, \u00e1o Breton song ha\u0300nh gi\u1eefa nh\u1eefng ma\u0300u sa\u0306\u0301c c\u00e1 t\u00ednh c\u1ee7a nhi\u1ec1u t\u00ean tu\u1ed5i qu\u00e1i ki\u1ec7t th\u1ebf k\u1ef7 20. Kh\u00f4ng kho\u0301 \u0111\u1ec3 ba\u0306\u0301t g\u1eb7p Pablo Picasso (1881-1973) m\u1eb7c \u00e1o k\u1ebb s\u1ecdc d\u1eabu \u1edf tr\u00ean ban c\u00f4ng hay trong studio nh\u01b0 th\u1ec3 mo\u0301n \u0111\u1ed3 \u0111\u00e3 tr\u1edf tha\u0300nh m\u1ed9t ph\u1ea7n cu\u1ed9c \u0111\u1eddi \u00f4ng. N\u1ebfu Audrey Hepburn (1929-1993) ph\u1ed1i \u00e1o Breton t\u1ed1i ma\u0300u v\u1edbi qu\u1ea7n da\u0300i c\u00f9ng m\u00e1i to\u0301c ca\u0306\u0301t nga\u0306\u0301n pixie to\u00e1t l\u00ean v\u1ebb th\u1eddi th\u01b0\u1ee3ng, th\u00ec \u1edf Marilyn Monroe (1926-1962) l\u1ea1i la\u0300 chi\u1ebfc \u0111\u1ea7m c\u00e1nh tay c\u1ed5 l\u1ecd va\u0300 tha\u0306\u0301t l\u01b0ng ngang eo \u0111\u1ea7y v\u1ebb thanh l\u1ecbch n\u1eef t\u00ednh. M\u1ed7i c\u00e1ch \u1ee9ng ph\u1ed1i h\u1ecda ti\u1ebft k\u1ebb s\u1ecdc tr\u1edf tha\u0300nh m\u1ed9t \u0111\u1ecbnh ng\u00f4n phong c\u00e1ch r\u1ea5t ri\u00eang c\u1ee7a ng\u01b0\u1eddi m\u1eb7c.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Brigitte Bardot ph\u00f4\u0301i a\u0301o Breton huy\u00ea\u0300n thoa\u0323i cu\u0300ng blazer trong phim Viva Maria! (1965)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

S\u00f3ng s\u00e1nh s\u00e1ng t\u1ea1o<\/strong><\/p>\n

Tr\u00ean l\u00e3nh \u0111\u1ecba th\u1eddi trang toa\u0300n c\u1ea7u, mang theo k\u00fd \u1ee9c tu\u1ed5i th\u01a1 v\u1ec1 chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o th\u1ee7y th\u1ee7 trong t\u1ee7 \u0111\u1ed3 ma\u0300 m\u1eb9 th\u01b0\u1eddng ch\u1ecdn, Jean Paul Gaultier k\u1ec3 t\u1eeb khi ra ma\u0306\u0301t b\u1ed9 s\u01b0u t\u1eadp \u0111\u1ea7u ti\u00ean n\u0103m 1976 \u0111\u00e3 kh\u00f4ng ng\u1eebng ti\u1ebfp bi\u1ebfn h\u1ecda ti\u1ebft k\u1ebb s\u1ecdc l\u00ean m\u1ed9t t\u1ea7m cao m\u1edbi. T\u1eeb \u201cl\u01a1 l\u1eedng” ho\u0301a chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o tr\u01b0\u1edbc c\u01a1 th\u1ec3 ng\u01b0\u1eddi m\u1eabu ph\u1ed1i v\u1edbi v\u00e1y chiffon da\u0300i trong BST Xu\u00e2n-H\u00e8 2003 hay t\u00edch h\u1ee3p \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng k\u1ebb Breton va\u0300o c\u00e1c phom d\u00e1ng jumpsuit, ch\u00e2n v\u00e1y, t\u1ea5t \u1ed1ng cao c\u00f9ng l\u1ed1i k\u1ebb ma\u0306\u0301t ma\u0300u xanh navy trong BST Thu-\u0110\u00f4ng 2015, Jean Paul Gaultier kh\u00f4ng ng\u1eebng m\u1edf r\u1ed9ng bi\u00ean \u0111\u1ed9 cho tri\u1ebft l\u00fd s\u00e1ng t\u1ea1o xoay quanh nh\u1eefng \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng k\u1ebb kinh \u0111i\u1ec3n c\u1ee7a m\u00ecnh. N\u0103m 1995, khi ra ma\u0306\u0301t d\u00f2ng n\u01b0\u1edbc hoa nam Le Male, \u00f4ng \u0111\u00e3 \u0111\u01b0a k\u1ebb s\u1ecdc Breton va\u0300o thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf c\u1ee7a l\u1ecd n\u01b0\u1edbc hoa v\u1edbi khu\u00f4n \u0111\u00fac m\u1ed9t c\u01a1 th\u1ec3 nam t\u00ednh \u0111\u1ea7y pho\u0301ng kho\u00e1ng, g\u00e2y d\u1ea5u \u1ea5n trong c\u1ed9ng \u0111\u1ed3ng s\u00e1ng t\u1ea1o \u0111\u01b0\u01a1ng th\u1eddi.<\/p>\n

Nga\u0300y nay, h\u1ecda ti\u1ebft k\u1ebb s\u1ecdc v\u1eabn ti\u1ebfp t\u1ee5c ca\u0300n qu\u00e9t sa\u0300n di\u1ec5n c\u1ee7a c\u00e1c nha\u0300 m\u1ed1t nh\u01b0 Yves Saint-Laurent hay C\u00e9line. Ch\u1ec9 m\u1ed9t l\u01b0\u1ee3t t\u00ecm ki\u1ebfm \u201cParisian Chic” c\u0169ng r\u1ea5t nhanh cho\u0301ng \u0111i\u1ec1u h\u01b0\u1edbng ch\u00fang ta \u0111\u1ebfn v\u1edbi d\u00e1ng \u00e1o Breton v\u1eeba c\u1ed5 \u0111i\u1ec3n, thanh l\u1ecbch song c\u0169ng v\u1eeba n\u0103ng \u0111\u1ed9ng, t\u1ed1i gi\u1ea3n. Ch\u00e2n tr\u1eddi s\u00e1ng t\u1ea1o cho \u00e1o k\u1ebb s\u1ecdc d\u01b0\u1eddng nh\u01b0 kh\u00f4ng \u0111i\u1ec3m k\u1ebft, lu\u00f4n \u0111\u1ee3i ch\u1edd nh\u1eefng t\u01b0 duy c\u1edfi m\u1edf va\u0300 la\u0300m m\u1edbi h\u1ecda ti\u1ebft xanh ng\u00e1t ma\u0300u bi\u1ec3n c\u1ea3, nh\u1ea5t la\u0300 khi m\u00f9a h\u1ea1 \u0111\u00e3 th\u1ea5m \u0111\u1eabm \u0111\u1ea5t tr\u1eddi.\"\"<\/p>\n

Xem th\u00eam b\u00e0i vi\u1ebft c\u00f9ng chuy\u00ean m\u1ee5c:<\/strong><\/p>\n