{"id":151444,"date":"2024-08-07T00:00:32","date_gmt":"2024-08-06T17:00:32","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/s6.letweb.net\/heritage-fashion\/cuoc-vien-chinh-duong-pho\/"},"modified":"2024-08-07T00:00:32","modified_gmt":"2024-08-06T17:00:32","slug":"cuoc-vien-chinh-duong-pho","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/s6.letweb.net\/heritage-fashion\/cuoc-vien-chinh-duong-pho\/","title":{"rendered":"Cu\u1ed9c vi\u1ec5n chinh \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng ph\u1ed1"},"content":{"rendered":"

B\u00e0i TH\u1ee6Y TI\u00caN
\n\u1ea2nh INTERNET<\/strong><\/p>\n

Xu\u1ea5t ph\u00e1t t\u1eeb y ph\u1ee5c c\u1ee7a t\u1ea7ng l\u1edbp lao \u0111\u1ed9ng, qu\u1ea7n jeans \u0111\u00e3 v\u01b0\u1ee3t qua nh\u1eefng cu\u1ed9c vi\u1ec5n chinh d\u1eb7m tr\u01b0\u1eddng, mang theo tinh th\u1ea7n n\u1ed5i lo\u1ea1n v\u00e0 \u00fd ch\u00ed \u0111\u1ea5u tranh \u0111\u1ec3 tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh m\u00f3n \u0111\u1ed3 thi\u1ebft y\u1ebfu trong t\u1ee7 \u0111\u1ed3 to\u00e0n th\u1ebf gi\u1edbi.<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n

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Fran Summers va\u0300 Mona Tougaard v\u01a1\u0301i chi\u00ea\u0301c qu\u00e2\u0300n jeans bi\u00ea\u0301n t\u00e2\u0301u \u0111\u00e2\u0300y thu\u0301 vi\u0323<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Ra \u0111\u1eddi trong \u201cc\u01a1n s\u1ed1t\u201d<\/strong><\/p>\n

N\u0103m 1970, t\u1edd American Fabrics t\u1eebng nh\u1eadn \u0111\u1ecbnh: \u201cDenim l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t trong nh\u1eefng lo\u1ea1i v\u1ea3i l\u00e2u \u0111\u1eddi nh\u1ea5t th\u1ebf gi\u1edbi, th\u1ebf nh\u01b0ng l\u1ea1i mang trong n\u00f3 tinh th\u1ea7n tr\u1ebb trung v\u0129nh c\u1eedu\u201d. To\u00e1t ra t\u1eeb l\u1edbp v\u1ea3i nhu\u1ed9m xanh l\u00e0 ngu\u1ed3n n\u0103ng l\u01b0\u1ee3ng t\u00e1o b\u1ea1o v\u00e0 t\u01b0\u01a1i tr\u1ebb, v\u01b0\u1ee3t l\u00ean m\u1ecdi ranh gi\u1edbi v\u1ec1 \u0111\u1ecba v\u1ecb, giai c\u1ea5p v\u00e0 ch\u1ee7ng t\u1ed9c \u0111\u1ec3 tr\u1ea3i d\u00e0i t\u1eeb th\u1ea3m \u0111\u1ecf, s\u00e0n di\u1ec5n th\u1eddi trang cho \u0111\u1ebfn nh\u1eefng con ph\u1ed1 t\u1ea5p n\u1eadp to\u00e0n th\u1ebf gi\u1edbi. Th\u1ebf nh\u01b0ng, \u00edt ai bi\u1ebft r\u1eb1ng qu\u1ea7n jeans l\u1ea1i c\u00f3 xu\u1ea5t ph\u00e1t \u0111i\u1ec3m v\u00f4 c\u00f9ng khi\u00eam t\u1ed1n.<\/p>\n

Nh\u1eefng n\u0103m 1850, c\u01a1n s\u1ed1t s\u0103n v\u00e0ng t\u1ea1i California thu h\u00fat nh\u00e2n c\u00f4ng t\u1eeb kh\u1eafp n\u01a1i \u0111\u1ed5 v\u1ec1. L\u00fac b\u1ea5y gi\u1edd, m\u1ed9t th\u1ee3 may t\u00ean l\u00e0 Jacob Davis th\u01b0\u1eddng mua v\u1ea3i denim t\u1eeb Levi Strauss \u0111\u1ec3 l\u00e0m bu\u1ed3m, l\u1ec1u b\u1ea1t. Nh\u1eadn th\u1ea5y \u0111\u00e2y l\u00e0 ch\u1ea5t v\u1ea3i d\u00e0y d\u1eb7n, c\u00f3 s\u1ee9c b\u1ec1n cao, anh d\u00f9ng v\u1ea3i denim \u0111\u1ec3 ch\u1ebf t\u00e1c qu\u1ea7n cho c\u00e1c th\u1ee3 m\u1ecf, t\u1eeb \u0111\u00f3 t\u1ea1o n\u00ean m\u1ed9t \u201cc\u01a1n s\u1ed1t\u201d y ph\u1ee5c song song v\u1edbi c\u01a1n s\u1ed1t v\u00e0ng \u0111\u00e3 lan tr\u00e0n kh\u1eafp n\u01b0\u1edbc M\u1ef9. N\u0103m 1873, Jacob Davis b\u1eaft tay v\u1edbi Levi Strauss \u0111\u1ec3 vi\u1ebft ti\u1ebfp h\u00e0nh tr\u00ecnh c\u1ee7a th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u Levi\u2019s. H\u1ee3p t\u00e1c n\u00e0y ch\u00ednh th\u1ee9c m\u1edf ra m\u1ed9t th\u1eddi \u0111\u1ea1i m\u1edbi cho qu\u1ea7n jeans \u2013 th\u1ebf k\u1ef7 c\u1ee7a n\u1ed5i lo\u1ea1n, \u0111\u1ea5u tranh v\u00e0 trao quy\u1ec1n cho th\u1ebf h\u1ec7 tr\u1ebb.<\/p>\n

N\u1ed5i lo\u1ea1n v\u00e0 b\u1ea5t tu\u00e2n<\/strong><\/p>\n

Theo t\u1ea1p ch\u00ed th\u1eddi trang Vogue, l\u1ed1i di\u1ec5n d\u1ecbch m\u00e0u h\u1ed3ng v\u1ec1 l\u1ecbch s\u1eed c\u1ee7a qu\u1ea7n jeans v\u1eabn th\u01b0\u1eddng khi\u1ebfn vai tr\u00f2 c\u1ee7a t\u1ea7ng l\u1edbp lao \u0111\u1ed9ng v\u00e0 tinh th\u1ea7n \u0111\u1ea5u tranh c\u1ee7a qu\u1ea7n jeans b\u1ecb xem nh\u1eb9. \u201cKh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 y ph\u1ee5c n\u00e0o mang trong n\u00f3 n\u1ed7i \u0111au x\u00e3 h\u1ed9i c\u0169ng nhi\u1ec1u nh\u01b0 t\u00ednh bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng m\u00e0 n\u00f3 c\u00f3 h\u01a1n qu\u1ea7n jeans\u201d. Nh\u1eefng n\u0103m 1920, qu\u1ea7n jeans \u0111\u00e3 ph\u1ed5 r\u1ed9ng kh\u1eafp b\u1edd T\u00e2y n\u01b0\u1edbc M\u1ef9 v\u00e0 nh\u1eadn \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u1ef1 \u01b0u \u00e1i c\u1ee7a c\u00e1c cao b\u1ed3i rong ru\u1ed5i tr\u00ean y\u00ean ng\u1ef1a \u2013 nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi \u0111\u00e3 n\u1ebfm tr\u1ea3i Ch\u1ee7 ngh\u0129a C\u00e1 nh\u00e2n kh\u1eafc nghi\u1ec7t c\u1ee7a n\u01b0\u1edbc M\u1ef9 (Rugged Individualism), t\u1ef1 m\u00ecnh \u0111\u1ed1i ch\u1ecdi v\u1edbi cu\u1ed9c s\u1ed1ng cam go. Cu\u1ed1i th\u1eadp ni\u00ean 30, phong c\u00e1ch n\u00e0y m\u1edbi \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c l\u00e3ng m\u1ea1n h\u00f3a nh\u1edd v\u00e0o c\u00e1c t\u00e0i t\u1eed Hollywood nh\u01b0 Gary Cooper hay John Wayne. Qu\u1ea7n jeans v\u01b0\u1ee3t kh\u1ecfi ranh gi\u1edbi c\u1ee7a trang ph\u1ee5c b\u1ea3o h\u1ed9 lao \u0111\u1ed9ng, tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh m\u00f3n \u0111\u1ed3 ta c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 m\u1eb7c trong d\u1ecbp ngh\u1ec9 d\u01b0\u1ee1ng cu\u1ed1i tu\u1ea7n.<\/p>\n

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Na\u0306m 2023, Levi\u2019s h\u01a1\u0323p ta\u0301c cu\u0300ng ERL \u0111\u00ea\u0309 ra m\u0103\u0301t BST jeans washed l\u00e2\u0301y ca\u0309m h\u01b0\u0301ng t\u01b0\u0300 khung ca\u0309nh ng\u1ea1\u0302p n\u0103\u0301ng \u01a1\u0309 California<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\u0110\u1ebfn th\u1eadp ni\u00ean 50, qu\u1ea7n jeans ch\u00ednh th\u1ee9c \u0111\u1ed3ng v\u1ecdng v\u1edbi m\u1ed9t th\u1ebf h\u1ec7 tr\u1ebb n\u1ed5i lo\u1ea1n v\u00e0 b\u1ea5t m\u00e3n, ti\u00eau bi\u1ec3u l\u00e0 h\u00ecnh t\u01b0\u1ee3ng c\u1ee7a Brando trong On the Waterfront (1954) v\u00e0 James Dean trong Rebel with a cause (1955). Trong phim Rebel with a cause, James Dean kho\u00e1c l\u00ean m\u00ecnh chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o s\u01a1 mi tr\u1eafng v\u00e0 qu\u1ea7n jeans xanh c\u1ee7a Levi\u2019s, b\u00ean ngo\u00e0i l\u00e0 \u00e1o kho\u00e1c gi\u00f3 \u0111\u1ecf. \u0110\u00f4i m\u1eaft u u\u1ea5t c\u1ee7a anh c\u00f9ng nh\u1eefng tr\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111o\u1ea1n t\u00e2m l\u00fd d\u1eef d\u1ed9i bi\u1ebfn James tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh \u0111\u1ea1i di\u1ec7n cho t\u1ea7ng l\u1edbp tu\u1ed5i teen M\u1ef9: tr\u00e0n tr\u1ec1 th\u1ea5t v\u1ecdng v\u1edbi x\u00e3 h\u1ed9i, c\u00f4 \u0111\u1ed9c v\u00e0 n\u1ed5i lo\u1ea1n. N\u1eafm b\u1eaft tinh th\u1ea7n \u0111\u00f3, thi\u1ebfu ni\u00ean M\u1ef9 nhi\u1ec7t t\u00ecnh s\u0103n \u0111\u00f3n qu\u1ea7n jeans \u0111\u1ec3 b\u1ed9c l\u1ed9 c\u00e1 t\u00ednh c\u1ee7a m\u00ecnh.<\/p>\n

Gi\u1edd ch\u01a1i \u0111\u00e3 \u0111i\u1ec3m<\/strong><\/p>\n

Th\u1eadp ni\u00ean 60-70 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t giai \u0111o\u1ea1n n\u00e1o \u0111\u1ed9ng trong l\u1ecbch s\u1eed M\u1ef9 \u2013 v\u1eeba c\u00f3 \u0111\u1ed9 l\u00f9i c\u1ee7a hai cu\u1ed9c th\u1ebf chi\u1ebfn, v\u1eeba l\u00e0 th\u1eddi \u0111i\u1ec3m phong tr\u00e0o ph\u1ea3n \u0111\u1ed1i chi\u1ebfn tranh Vi\u1ec7t Nam \u0111\u1ebfn h\u1ed3i quy\u1ebft li\u1ec7t. \u0110\u01b0\u1eddng ph\u1ed1 tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh c\u00e1i n\u00f4i c\u1ee7a c\u00e1c cu\u1ed9c bi\u1ec3u t\u00ecnh x\u00e3 h\u1ed9i v\u00e0 ch\u1ee7 ngh\u0129a ph\u1ea3n v\u0103n h\u00f3a \u2013 v\u00e0 d\u0129 nhi\u00ean, m\u1ed9t cu\u1ed9c ch\u01a1i n\u1ed5i lo\u1ea1n \u0111\u1ebfn th\u1ebf kh\u00f4ng th\u1ec3 thi\u1ebfu qu\u1ea7n jeans. V\u1edbi ch\u1ee7 tr\u01b0\u01a1ng \u201cFlower power\u201d, nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi theo phong c\u00e1ch Hippie th\u00eau ho\u1ea1 ti\u1ebft hoa s\u1eb7c s\u1ee1 l\u00ean qu\u1ea7n jeans \u0111\u1ec3 gi\u00f3ng l\u00ean tinh th\u1ea7n ph\u1ea3n chi\u1ebfn. T\u01b0\u01a1ng t\u1ef1, c\u00e1c nh\u00e0 ho\u1ea1t \u0111\u1ed9ng n\u1eef quy\u1ec1n m\u1eb7c qu\u1ea7n jeans xanh \u0111\u1ec3 gi\u01b0\u01a1ng cao ng\u1ecdn c\u1edd b\u00ecnh \u0111\u1eb3ng. Nh\u00e0 tr\u01b0\u1eddng c\u00e0ng c\u1ea5m \u0111o\u00e1n, gi\u1edbi tr\u1ebb M\u1ef9 l\u1ea1i c\u00e0ng \u0111\u1ea5u tranh quy\u1ebft li\u1ec7t.<\/p>\n

M\u1ecdi cu\u1ed9c ch\u01a1i r\u1ed3i s\u1ebd \u0111\u1ebfn cao tr\u00e0o. Th\u1eadp ni\u00ean 70-80 ch\u1ee9ng ki\u1ebfn s\u1ef1 nh\u1eadp cu\u1ed9c c\u1ee7a c\u00e1c nh\u00e0 m\u1ed1t cao c\u1ea5p, kh\u1edfi \u0111\u1ea7u l\u00e0 Calvin Klein khi \u0111\u01b0a qu\u1ea7n jeans l\u00ean s\u00e0n runway v\u00e0o n\u0103m 1976. M\u1eb7t kh\u00e1c, qu\u1ea7n jeans \u0111\u00e3 x\u00e2m nh\u1eadp v\u00e0o c\u00e1c tr\u00e0o l\u01b0u v\u0103n h\u00f3a nh\u01b0 Punk, Grunge v\u00e0 Rock nh\u1edd v\u00e0o t\u00ednh linh ho\u1ea1t v\u00e0 v\u1ebb ngo\u00e0i b\u1ee5i b\u1eb7m, t\u1ea1o ti\u1ec1n \u0111\u1ec1 cho nh\u1eefng cu\u1ed9c giao thoa kinh \u0111i\u1ec3n gi\u1eefa phong c\u00e1ch \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng ph\u1ed1 v\u00e0 th\u1eddi trang cao c\u1ea5p. V\u00ed nh\u01b0 qu\u1ea7n jeans r\u00e1ch, m\u1ea5y ai bi\u1ebft r\u1eb1ng ti\u1ec1n th\u00e2n c\u1ee7a ch\u00fang b\u1eaft ngu\u1ed3n khi c\u00e1c t\u00edn \u0111\u1ed3 punk ch\u1ee7 \u0111\u1ed9ng x\u00e9 r\u00e1ch qu\u1ea7n \u0111\u1ec3 kh\u1eb3ng \u0111\u1ecbnh tinh th\u1ea7n c\u00f4 l\u1eadp v\u00e0 ch\u1ed1ng \u0111\u1ed1i? Kh\u00f4ng l\u00e2u sau, qu\u1ea7n jeans r\u00e1ch xu\u1ea5t hi\u1ec7n \u201cng\u1ea1o ngh\u1ec5\u201d tr\u00ean s\u00e0n di\u1ec5n c\u1ee7a Jordache hay Calvin Klein. Ch\u1ec9 trong m\u1ed9t th\u1ebf k\u1ef7, qu\u1ea7n jeans \u0111\u00e3 v\u01b0\u1ee3t l\u00ean m\u1ecdi ranh gi\u1edbi v\u1ec1 \u0111\u1ecba v\u1ecb, v\u0103n h\u00f3a v\u00e0 ch\u1ee7ng t\u1ed9c \u0111\u1ec3 tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh m\u1eabu s\u1ed1 chung c\u1ee7a c\u1ea3 nh\u00e2n lo\u1ea1i.<\/p>\n

\u1ede s\u00e2n ch\u01a1i n\u00e0y, tinh th\u1ea7n ph\u1ea3n kh\u00e1ng tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh l\u1ec1 lu\u1eadt. Kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 khi\u00eau kh\u00edch x\u00e3 h\u1ed9i \u0111\u01b0\u01a1ng th\u1eddi, m\u1ed7i m\u1ed9t xu h\u01b0\u1edbng qu\u1ea7n jeans ra \u0111\u1eddi l\u00e0 c\u00f2n l\u00e0 ng\u1ecdn s\u00f3ng tr\u00e0o ph\u1ea3n b\u00e1c ch\u00ednh xu h\u01b0\u1edbng li\u1ec1n tr\u01b0\u1edbc n\u00f3. Xu\u00f4i d\u00f2ng Hip Hop c\u1ee7a th\u1eadp ni\u00ean 90, ng\u01b0\u1ee3c l\u1ea1i v\u1edbi qu\u1ea7n jeans \u1ed1ng \u0111\u1ee9ng ti\u00eau chu\u1ea9n l\u00e0 nh\u1eefng chi\u1ebfc qu\u1ea7n \u1ed1ng r\u1ed9ng c\u1ee7a JNCO, khi\u1ebfn Levi\u2019s \u0111i\u00eau \u0111\u1ee9ng m\u1ed9t th\u1eddi. Tu\u1ed5i th\u01a1 c\u1ee7a th\u1ebf h\u1ec7 tr\u1ebb th\u1eddi k\u1ef3 n\u00e0y sao c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 thi\u1ebfu chi\u1ebfc qu\u1ea7n jeans c\u1ea1p tr\u1ec5 qu\u00e1 kh\u1ed5 \u0111\u1ea7y s\u00e0nh \u0111i\u1ec7u, hay jeans Carpenter v\u1edbi nh\u1eefng m\u1eabu t\u00fai \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c bi\u1ebfn t\u1ea5u \u0111\u1ea7y th\u00fa v\u1ecb?<\/p>\n

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Kho\u0302ng pha\u0302n bi\u1eb9\u0302t tu\u00f4\u0309i ta\u0301c hay gi\u01a1\u0301i ti\u0301nh, qu\u00e2\u0300n jeans tr\u01a1\u0309 tha\u0300nh m\u00e2\u0303u s\u00f4\u0301 chung cu\u0309a ca\u0309 nha\u0302n loa\u0323i<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Thi\u00ean ni\u00ean k\u1ef7 ho\u00e0i ni\u1ec7m<\/strong><\/p>\n

B\u01b0\u1edbc v\u00e0o th\u1ebf k\u1ef7 21, c\u00e1c si\u00eau sao nh\u1ea1c Pop ti\u1ebfp t\u1ee5c th\u1eed nghi\u1ec7m qu\u1ea7n jeans theo nhi\u1ec1u c\u00e1ch: qu\u1ea7n b\u00f3 s\u00e1t v\u00e0 qu\u1ea7n c\u1ea1p tr\u1ec5. Th\u1eddi trang c\u00f3 xu h\u01b0\u1edbng tu\u1ea7n ho\u00e0n sau kho\u1ea3ng 10 \u0111\u1ebfn 20 n\u0103m. Qu\u1ea7n jeans c\u0169ng kh\u00f4ng ngo\u1ea1i l\u1ec7, minh ch\u1ee9ng l\u00e0 s\u1ef1 h\u1ed3i v\u00e3n c\u1ee7a d\u00e1ng qu\u1ea7n b\u00f3 s\u00e1t k\u1ec3 tr\u00ean v\u00e0 xu h\u01b0\u1edbng Y2K \u0111\u01b0\u01a1ng th\u1eddi. Tuy v\u1eady, qu\u1ea7n jeans c\u0169ng c\u00f3 ph\u1ea7n l\u1ea1c d\u00f2ng, b\u1edfi t\u1ea1i b\u1ea5t c\u1ee9 th\u1eddi \u0111i\u1ec3m n\u00e0o trong 24 n\u0103m qua, ta v\u1eabn th\u1ea5y nh\u1eefng r\u1ebd nh\u00e1nh kh\u00e1c nhau c\u1ee7a jeans \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u01b0a chu\u1ed9ng m\u1ed9t c\u00e1ch \u0111\u1ed3ng th\u1eddi v\u00e0 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1eb7c b\u1edfi h\u00e0ng tri\u1ec7u ng\u01b0\u1eddi tr\u00ean ph\u1ed1.<\/p>\n

Qu\u1ea7n jeans \u0111\u00e3 tr\u1ea3i qua m\u1ed9t h\u00e0nh tr\u00ecnh d\u00e0i \u0111\u1ec3 ti\u1ebfn \u0111\u1ebfn v\u1ecb th\u1ebf ph\u1ed5 qu\u00e1t \u1edf th\u1eddi \u0111i\u1ec3m hi\u1ec7n t\u1ea1i, v\u1edbi s\u1ee9c s\u1ed1ng qu\u1eadt c\u01b0\u1eddng v\u00e0 n\u0103ng l\u01b0\u1ee3ng t\u00e1o b\u1ea1o kh\u00f4ng th\u1ec3 d\u1eadp t\u1eaft. Ch\u1eb3ng th\u1ebf m\u00e0 n\u0103m 1983, trong m\u1ed9t cu\u1ed9c ph\u1ecfng v\u1ea5n v\u1edbi New York Magazine, Yves Saint Laurent \u0111\u00e3 kh\u1eb3ng kh\u00e1i chia s\u1ebb: \u201cT\u00f4i \u01b0\u1edbc m\u00ecnh \u0111\u00e3 ph\u00e1t minh ra qu\u1ea7n jean. Ch\u00fang c\u00f3 s\u1ef1 bi\u1ec3u c\u1ea3m, khi\u00eam t\u1ed1n, s\u1ef1 h\u1ea5p d\u1eabn gi\u1edbi t\u00ednh v\u00e0 v\u1ebb \u0111\u1eb9p \u0111\u01a1n gi\u1ea3n \u2013 t\u1ea5t c\u1ea3 nh\u1eefng g\u00ec t\u00f4i k\u1ef3 v\u1ecdng \u1edf thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf c\u1ee7a m\u00ecnh\u201d.\"\"<\/p>\n

Xem th\u00eam b\u00e0i vi\u1ebft c\u00f9ng chuy\u00ean m\u1ee5c:<\/strong><\/p>\n