Do Thi Tham

Kyoto’s ancient Machiya houses contain profound cultural values

Century-old houses in the former capital of Kyoto are part of the heritage of Japan. However, these buildings are not dusty museums but have been transformed into spaces that teach visitors about Japan’s traditional values and culture. Turned into homestays, these old homes introduce tourists to Japan’s unique culture and worldview.

By a dash of luck we had the chance to experience one night in a traditional homestay. While traveling from Tokyo to Kyoto, we searched through some pamphlets to find lodging. We found a leaflet for a homestay in a century-old house with distinct architecture that was located quite near the train station. We could walk there. At the address, we found a rustic facade. At first glance, the house looked abandoned. However a wonderful surprise awaited behind the wooden sliding door. The space was not posh but peaceful and pleasant. You could tell the care and attention to detail that had gone into creating this inviting space. It felt safe and homey. We’d found the perfect place to shelter.

The receptionist was the host’s daughter. Her openness put us at ease. Rather than greeting us with the superficial charm of a hotel employee, this young woman seemed genuinely pleased to meet us. She introduced us to the public spaces – the kitchen, breakfast room, café, library – and informed us of the homestay’s rules. From now on, we were to feel at home.

With a closer look I admired the architecture and décor even more. Our homestay was in a traditional wooden Machiya house typical of Kyoto. It had a room that overlooked the street and other rooms behind it to form an extended house. These rooms housed guests. Behind the house was a green space housing a miniature bonsai garden called a Tsuboniwa .

Every single corner was well planned. A frail porcelain vase holding a dried bare branch placed on a wooden stool formed an Ikebana painting. Ancient low wooden stools in the café evoked a sense of serenity and invited us to rest. There was a library, a tiny working space with a shelf packed with both old and new books from the host and tourists who had exchanged them. There was even a sewing kit like my mom’s, to enable tourists to administer “first aid” to their clothes on their long journeys. We also found a tea making kit, including tableware, a bamboo brush and green matcha powder. If time permits, your host may invite you to kneel down and grasp the rituals of a Japanese tea ceremony.

Living in this house, I naturally wanted to don a kimono, tiptoe on my wooden geta clogs along the extended corridor and humbly bow to step over the little thresholds.

We were only there for 24 hours but that old house gave us something unforgettable – a memory to long for, deep in our minds and hearts, and the sense that life can provide exactly what’s needed.